In this blog I am going to give you a how to on my metallic finish of copper patina and rust application on wood As you can see I started with a small vessel that has been hollowed. This vessel is about 5 inches in heigh. I only want to rust the top as I am going to copper patina the base. The rust paint is a paint from Michaels which is a hobby store here in the USA. The paint is very thick and contains metal flake. It is put on very heavy and allowed to dry. Here I have applied...
Well, it’s not a woodworking technique, but I am certain you can think of fabulous ways to add it to wood projects. I made a pencil holder. Let me know if you have other ways to achieve a patina effect. I think it’s pretty neat!
Curving or wrapping might be better terms. Once again Sketchup is a big help in this process. The plan calls for rounded corners on the footboard so yours truly doesn’t bang his shins on them, or when he does it won’t be a sharp corner. This is also another good example of the versatility and accuracy of the Mortise Pal jig. The Dimension tool in the Sketchup model measured the outside of the two staves 1 7/8” in order to achieve a 2 1/2” inside radius with 1”...
Hello jocks and jockettes… it has been awhile since my last project, still I’ve been keeping busy. This is the first entry in a new series on the Arched Bed. If you’ve seen the copper patina gates you know where I got the idea, or as my brother said, “you’re turning your gate into a bed.” The backstory is I had built a bed a couple years ago but since that time we got a Sleep Number bed. Well the new mattresses are each 10” tall so the old b...
One of the main challenges of cutting an arch is figuring out the dimensions and glue angle of straight boards from which an arch can be cut. Fortunately, this time around I’m using Sketchup. As you can see in the picture it is pretty easy to figure these out, although I’m still searching for a formula to calculate the dimensions. The vertical angle is 15 degrees. I drew a line intersecting the bottom of the middle of the arch with the bottom of the right side. I then made a ...
First… after seeing Trifern’s secrets on dyeing I wonder how a door would look? Guess I’ll have to give it a try. Anyway, here’s the gate with several coats of outdoor oil over some redwood stain. The colors in the photo are pretty accurate. The top picture gives a good comparison of the treated and untreated copper panel. Once the gate is hung I will post a final blog on this series with photos and some specifications and tips I learned on this project. An...
Nothing real exciting at this point. Just wanted to have a complete blog on this project. I used the Turnlock System and Circle Jig by Milescraft to cut the arch in the panel. I noticed a nice review was posted by Teenagewoodworker on this jig and plan to my experience and thoughts when I get a chance. The bent laminations fit nicely and the whole thing easily went together, which is a pleasant change from my normal routine. I installed one side of the stays and left the othe...
There are a number of ways to hold the panel in place. You could cut a rabbet on the inside edge, or you could cut a groove on the inside of the stiles and rails like a cabinet door panel. I chose to stick with the method David Marks used, panel stays. Yet once again, there is an arch to deal with. This time I thought I would just use the top rail as a bending template for a bent lamination to ensure a good fit. The plan was to resaw thin strips 2” wide and just long enough to fit ...
Here’s my first attempt at the hot patina process. All but one of the chemicals arrived from ArtChemicals, the Cupric Nitrate being on back order. I decided I couldn’t wait and pressed on anyway. I printed labels so I could keep better track of the chemical blends and colors each was supposed to produce. I learned two things right away. The first is this is a complicated process. The second is you really can’t mess it up. I used the method demonstrated by David Marks ...
Except for the fact the tennons were a little tight and there was a slight gap in one of the joints, both of which were quickly corrected on the belt sander, the frame easily fit together. Here’s the first dryfit. There was a slight gap in the upper and lower right joints. A quick touch of the upper arch on the belt sander fixed both. And here’s a tease of things to come!
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