I think the pictures tell all. I almost forgot to do this. This is the second layer of epoxy. I take extra care in filling the pockets left by air bubbles. I use a toothpick to push the epoxy into the craters. I have a spatula I made from a piece of pine that has a rounded edge. I can post a in anyone wants to see it. I use this as a squeegee to force the epoxy into the craters also. This can be tricky because if you wait to long it gets real stick and messes things up. ...
here is the finished inlay with the handle on the lid. It still has a little ways to go until it is complete but it’s getting there. I also said in the last entry that I would include my next inlay because it would have more carving in it. Here it is. A little back ground story to it. We have a family friend who ordered 3 boxes from me for the Christmas holidays. She also did some very nice things for my wife and oldest daughter. Since funds are a little tight around the house ...
By Bob “Grizz” PutMAN with a little help from a friend (Jim Bertelson) . . . . Amazing twisted beauty, lies before my eye’s … It’s the Rolling Thunder, what a grand surprise! Surely stored up magic, from an ancient Celtic land, Turned up into rolling wood, by Lew the wizard man. . . . . When such beauty, was soon to be seen, A wonderful happening, from behind the scenes… Taking God’s wood, with your shaping and style, Lew created a gem, that made me smile. . . A wonderful gift Lew made f...
I use my table saw sled to square up the lid and cut it to size Then it’s on to the jointer where I size the width of the lids. I like to make mine about 1/16 smaller at this point. Final sanding should bring it down the rest of the way. I try to end up with about 1/16 gap all the way around.I have ripped scrap pine that just sit in the box and holds the lid in place. This will be need when I go to drill for lid pins. It also lets me see where the lid will sit. This time I felt...
So first I sanded up the bottom detail using a drum sander on my ancient drill press next I cut the dado for the bottom to set in. I don’t have a dado blade so I just make multiple passes on the table saw. After that is done, I move on to sand the inside of the box. Since it is nearly impossible to do after the box is together this is the perfect time to do it. Now it’s just a little glue and some tape. I have found that with boxes this small tape is more than enou...
I have been sanding as the project progressed so I am able to hand sand 180 grit and then 220 grit. I then finish with three coats of rub on poly. Let the piece sit for a couple of weeks to wait for the finish to fully cure and then rub out any dust nubs with 0000 steel wool. Finally, I use my Beall Buffing system to buff out the finish. Use the red tripoli finish first, followed by white diamond compound and finally wax. To be honest, I should have sanded to 320 to really se...
I recently finished working on a cutting algorithm app for the iPad and iPhone called Smart Cutter, and wanted to share the app with every one hoping get some feedback from carpenters and wood workers. Smart Cutter finds the maximum number of small pieces cut from a larger sheet of paper with minimum scrap. It employs a state of the art algorithm to generate the maximum number of small pieces cut from a larger sheet of paper, wood, cloth or any other material, with minimum waste. Whether y...
You ain’t ever gonna keep me down. Lyric spotters please feel free to comment. I left you, last night, as I was hacking at the pattern board with a chisel. No, I’m not mad. I’ve done all the tests. It worked. I repaired the pattern. I re-placed the mask and all looks good. Re-taped the pattern I scored a knife line into the pattern,along the outside edge of the outer tape. In combination with a strip of Polycarbonate, which has a line scored on...
In my last blog, I created the tray bottom. In this blog, I will cut the grooves for the tray bottom, rout finger holds and put the tray together. First step is to cut grooves in the tail section. I use the MCLS 13/64” plywood bit (because 1/4” plywood is smaller than it’s nominal size). As a rule of thumb, I like to cut the groove 2x the groove width (so 1/2” in this case) from the bottom in order to leave enough material for a strong assembly. I mark t...
I’ve decided to make this one with wood from from my scrap bin and my ‘Ebony Bits Box’ - I won’t bore you with the details but after a lot of cutting and sticking, using Viscose CA, I had made the pattern (with a few little modifications). This was glued onto a backing of 1.5mm Birch Aeroply, using PVA, and thickness sanded to 5mm. Hand sanded down to 600 grit and a couple of coats of spray acrylic (satin finish) later this is the result. I have sto...
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