Some friends visited a few days ago, and commented upon some of my work (it’s hard to avoid – the house is full of it), and, in particular, the finishes on some of my more recent work.There are many many things in the sphere of woodworking at which I am not very good, but, after several years, I can now reliably get a really nice, oil-only, finish on my pieces. It’s silky smooth, very tactile, and has a soft satin sheen.My method differs from anything I’ve seen or read...
I recently made my first grease box. I’m sure it won’t be the last version of it, but it’s a start. I’m not alone in the “Could’a, should’a, would’a” thoughts as a project comes to a close. Size, shape, wood choice, overall design, etc. You have to start somewhere before you get it right. The next decision…What to put in it? Wood butter, spoon oil, grease, paste, wax, whatever you want to call it. Something must go in there...
After sanding the boards to 320 grit on the Random Orbital Sander, I used 1200 grit to burnish the tops only… then it was just a matter of rubbing heaps of Mineral Oil [liquid Paraffin oil] into the boards…and buffing off the excess… this procedure will be repeated every 24 hours..once I get back from Adelaide…And then just one more finishing touch… next week…
In this video I’m applying my 3 part hand rubbed oil/resin finish to a Canadian Black Walnut coffee table base. I talk more about what and amount of ingredients in my 3 part hand rubbed oil resin finish. I can’t call it mine though, pretty sure it’s been used by many many people. I initially read about it in a Sam Maloof book I think it was called Woodworker. Well I hope you enjoy the video, I finish it up by showing the curly walnut book matched live edge coffee table to...
Some things that I've learned about finishing. Some of them I also use. #3: Wood filling and finishing
The continuation of the Pumice and rottenstone as wood fillers. I let the BLO (Boiled Linseed Oil) harden for 1 week on the boards.This is my spraying table that I use. The bottom is on a lazy susan swivel so that it can turn 360 Degrees. I made a block that I can set on top of it that has a bunch of screws through the plywood so that I can put items on top of the screw points and not have the wood sitting on the flat surface and get finish creep under the boards. The spray gun that us...
Time lapse application of our oil / resin finish on our A chair, hope you enjoy! To watch in HD click on the movie to be taken to youtube.
I found this bit of helpful information in a magazine, and just wanted to share. Dip a rag in a container of boiled Linseed Oil, and wipe it onto a sanded tool handle (shovel handle was shown).Let the oil soak in for a few minutes. The wipe it off the excess with a dry rag. I haven’t tried this, but I’m thinking it might work on cutting boards, and butcher blocks as well.
This is a time lapse video of me wiping on and off my 3 part hand rubbed oil / resin finish. This is the top to a solid walnut coffee table, the top is book matched live edge curly Canadian walnut. P.S I had fun with the music this time (-:
After getting everything set up, the next step was put the finish on! I really like this step, each coat increases the gloss, depth and color. I use a two finish process, both parts are from General Finishes. The first finish is their oil based coat. I wipe the finish on with a piece of cheesecloth. The first coat basically soaks into the wood. Areas where the grain is very tight, even the first coat shows a little gloss. I add more coats until the wood shows a uniform gloss....
Well I finally got started with some finish late today. Just wiped on the 1st coat of Watco…I’m using the natural. I like what I see but I’m not sure if I want to add some contrast or not. I also STILL have some glue spots and scratches showing. I’m planning on hitting the spots again with 220 and then doing everything with 400 before the second coat. Watco No. 1 From side. We didn’t get out to get foam or upholstery fabric this weekend so the final fini...
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