I’ve already blogged my AZ chevalet so this will be a simple “keep you up to date” one about “Chevy II”. When I moved to my current address and built my shop I was fortunate enough to run into a fellow who was moving and had to sell his hoard of local hardwoods. Long story short, I bought two heaped pickup truck fulls of a variety of local hardwoods, all two or more years air dried, for $200 and he helped me move it. I’m not usually a big Oak fan but as ...
Since 95% of my stock is recycled pieces of shipping crates, pallets, or cut offs donated from a now closed cabinet shop, I have to do a LOT of glue ups.I have plenty of wood, just not in “ready to build” sizes. This is about 1/4th of my supply. I keep the rest spread out at Grandma’s, my brother’s and everywhere else there is a little room. lol So to do any projects, glue ups have to be fast, easy and as simple as possible.I’ve made a set of clamping caul...
Workbench Build - Splayed leg French Bench #1: Top&Legs Jointed, Starting to layout the Wooden Screws.
A while black I posed a forum topic asking for folks advise on how to use this piece of wood for a workbench. A cabinet maker I bought my band saw from gave it to me for free. It was made from two slabs from a green oak tree so it cupped pretty bad. It had been used as a table for a restaurant. After assimilating everyone’s advice I decided I would cut out the piths, re-glue the top and use it to make a French workbench like Roy Underhill does in one of his shows. I love the splayed...
This is a blog requested by Douglas Bordner. Midnight Serenade started as an ordinary piece of straight grain oak. I carved an unusual shape to try and bring some interest to the grain. After shaping and sanding, this piece almost receive a traditional finish. The wood and grain were beautiful, but Douglas had a request that needed to be fulfilled. The next step was to apply two coats of Fiebing’s black leather dye. You could also use this technique to ebonize a piece. I t...
I have been working on a pair of nightstands for a while now and I’ve been trying to sort out what stain to use on them. They are quartersawn white oak and reproduction Stickleys so I wanted a nice older look. I started digging around in magazines, books, online, etc… and I found some great resources – like Captain Skully's forum post. Unfortunately, viewing something over the net always makes it appear a bit “off” to me. So I decided that I needed to prototy...
Hi all, I seem to be on a roll with the videos at the moment. Here is another quick one I did last night on the mortise and tenon joint. I hope that this takes some of the mystery out of a seemingly daunting joint. It is quick and simple really and can be incorporated in so many projects. Let me know what you think and of course ask questions. Enjoy!
Hello again, On the last blog I made the guide block that guides the tap. Here I’ve made the tap and cut my first nut last night! I’m very excited about this accomplishment, this is really the most challenging part of the build and I think cutting the screw to fit will be pretty straight forward. If you’re like me, you like looking at pictures more than reading so here are some pics showing the process I followed with a brief explanation. Laid out thread pitch on paper (2...
1. Beginning of the project… getting the 26 oak boards identical and laid out and glued up. 2. After a few hours of carving and shaping, with the star field cut (to scale of the overall dimensions). Still no glue-up at this time… Used my angle grinder with King Arthur and Arbortech wheels… 3. Used clear stain with dye added… took a few coats to get what I was wanting but it turned out well. 4. Glue up completed nothing left but the field of stars and a fin...
While my leg vise hardware is still being machined to mate screw and the wheel I’ve been working on the legs. In particular got ready for draw-boring. My target was 10mm pegs (3/8” approx). I made them from rough oak stock: first planed it a little, then ripped into beams and planed square blanks about 11×11mm (7/16” approx), so I had about 1mm allowance (1/32” approx). Then I rounded them roughly with the block plane: At this point dowels w...
I’d been living with this board of burr / burl or pippy oak in the workshop for five or six years and must have picked it up and put it back down at least a hundred times (approx!). I have done quite a few boxes in the past with lids something like this: but I always intended that this piece would be used in a different way, and for something a little bit special. Though I’ve made many boxes, I have never thought of doing one for me, so this challenge presents an opportunity. ...
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