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Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'oak'

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foot powered Scroll saw #4: The Tower

1862 days ago by Tom8021 | 1 comment »

The tower needs to be beefy. I had some 7/8 ASH laying around so I used it. Everything hinges on the tower so don’t be shy adding a few bolts. The lower part ( 2 1/2×15 1/2) is just bolted to the base with three lag bolts. I drilled the base so the bolt heads sat flush with the bottom. There are dados for the vertical pieces. I wanted to make sure I could minimize any movement and I think this works with the triangle supports. By the way the dimension of 13” on the to...

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View Chris Davis's profile

Oak Wall/Canopy #3: The Headboard Wall Unit

1862 days ago by Chris Davis | 0 comments »

The wall is up! I have the piers, headboard, and light bar built and temporally set up in the shop. The headboard I spent a lot of time on. It has a cut out top that slops inward and a storage section in the lower section in the headboard (see pictures below). I’m going to do something really cool with that storage section so keep watching this blog. The light bar was straight forward, but I had to figure out how I wanted the canopy to attach later and where the mirrors would actua...

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foot powered Scroll saw #3: tension adjusting and blade mechanizium

1863 days ago by Tom8021 | 6 comments »

To make it so you can adjust the tension on the blade I took a 12” threaded screw and put it through oversize holes in the back end of the arms. I put a nut on the bottom and a adjustable knob on the top. The other end was a bit harder to figure out. I kept browsing over all of the fasteners at Home Depot, thinking there has to be a way to make a solid connection between the arms and the blades. Then it hit me and I think it is simple and strong. I took a threaded rod coup...

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foot powered Scroll saw #2: foot powered Scroll saw #2:

1863 days ago by Tom8021 | 1 comment »

Let’s go over what my dimensions are: I used scraps I had around the shop, Base 32×16 x 3/4 melaminetable 36×12 x 3/4 melamine Arms 36×3/4×5/8 oakarm support (rides on top of the arm) 30×5/8×1 1/2tower 2 1/2×7/8×13 from the base You can see the arm top and arm are glued together perpendicular to each other for strength. The arms are attached about 4” in from end with the lower arm 3” off the base and the upper 8”...

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foot powered Scroll saw #1: foot powered Scroll saw #1:

1864 days ago by Tom8021 | 6 comments »

First off I wanted to do some marquertry but shelling out $400 plus for a slow speed scroll saw was too steep. I tried to find a used one locally, but after a couple of months it wasn’t happening. Then I was going through some old issues of “Woodwork” magazine and found an article on building your own foot powered scroll saw. If you can find it, they are no longer around, it was the October 2006 edition. Anyway the guy who made it was Brian Condran (briancondran@aol.com) and...

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View Chris Davis's profile

Oak Wall/Canopy #1: The Plan

1864 days ago by Chris Davis | 2 comments »

This project is something a little different. It is a bedroom wall unit, not a murphy wall bed, but one with piers, headboard, mirrors and a light bar. The kind where the bed just sits in front of it. The twist on this one is I will be adding a canopy to it. This will be a canopy like the old waterbed style, with the mirrors in the top. I’ve built both the Accent style wall unit and the canopy in the past, but have never combined the two. I’ll start with a style that I built before an...

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View CaptainSkully's profile

Arts & Crafts Dining Room Set #2: Template Adjustment

1864 days ago by CaptainSkully | 1 comment »

So, we decided that 72” was a bit overpowering. I yanked the pseudo-top out into the garage and cut a foot off, and then to preserve the Golden Ratio (we just watched a documentary about the Parthenon), cut the width down to 37”. This size is much better, and is more amenable to placing a Limbert Lamp Table or sideboard in the dining area. It seats six comfortably instead of eight, but we’d rather setup another table or TV trays instead of having a monolithic table 24/7. ...

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Limbert Lamp Table - Stickley #240 #1: Templates

1865 days ago by CaptainSkully | 2 comments »

So, between TreeFrogFurniture.BlogSpot.com and Robert Lang’s book “More Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture”, I decided that the corner of our dining room could stand an accent table. TreeFrog has built two different styles, so I “borrowed” the plans for the one I liked (he posted them online) and made my first template. I’m going to wait to make the interior template until I have the shell complete. The angles make things a bit messy. Like Tre...

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Arts & Crafts Dining Room Set #1: Test Drive

1876 days ago by CaptainSkully | 0 comments »

The first installment of this blog is here due to LJ blogging technical issues… To make sure the dimensions are correct for our new table, we decided to do a little test drive. It didn’t hurt that we’re having eight people over for a Fourth of July BBQ. We ran over to the big box store and bought a sheet of particle board for $29. When we got it home, I cut it down to 45” x 72”, the finished dimensions of the table top. After I sanded it and eased the edge...

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View John Gray's profile

Edge Banding Particle Board with Solid Hardwood

1878 days ago by John Gray | 9 comments »

I’m building an 18” V-Drum Sander from http://www.stockroomsupply.com/V_Drum_Sander.php Stockroom Supply. I was given a Particle Board piece to use as a top it’s laminated with a thin slick veneer top and bottom. I’d like to band the edges with Oak that I already cut and mitered. The question is how to attach the Oak to the Particle Board edges? I’m read plenty of horror stories about splitting the Particle Board when using screws and/or nails to attach it. ...

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