I bought a package of four springs at Home Depot. You can put a spring at the back or at the front. I tried the different sizes in different places and picked the 4” one near the front. I put it on by gluing short pieces of dowels, one to the base and the other to the bottom arm, and slipping it on. The next thing to do is drill a hole in the end of the bottom arm. I failed to mention that the hole for the blade holder is 1” in from the front end of both arms. Also, I cut ab...
Some scroll work requires you to tilt the table. I accomplish this by allowing the table to pivot on the tower end and created a trundle on the opposite end. The thing to remember is the top of the table is 5” off the base. With the table width at 12” I created a curve so that the radius is 4 1/2” . The trundle is 2” wide 1/2” ply with a 3/4” slot in the middle. The slot can be smaller it just needs to be able to pass the lag bolt through it. The su...
The tower needs to be beefy. I had some 7/8 ASH laying around so I used it. Everything hinges on the tower so don’t be shy adding a few bolts. The lower part ( 2 1/2×15 1/2) is just bolted to the base with three lag bolts. I drilled the base so the bolt heads sat flush with the bottom. There are dados for the vertical pieces. I wanted to make sure I could minimize any movement and I think this works with the triangle supports. By the way the dimension of 13” on the to...
The wall is up! I have the piers, headboard, and light bar built and temporally set up in the shop. The headboard I spent a lot of time on. It has a cut out top that slops inward and a storage section in the lower section in the headboard (see pictures below). I’m going to do something really cool with that storage section so keep watching this blog. The light bar was straight forward, but I had to figure out how I wanted the canopy to attach later and where the mirrors would actua...
To make it so you can adjust the tension on the blade I took a 12” threaded screw and put it through oversize holes in the back end of the arms. I put a nut on the bottom and a adjustable knob on the top. The other end was a bit harder to figure out. I kept browsing over all of the fasteners at Home Depot, thinking there has to be a way to make a solid connection between the arms and the blades. Then it hit me and I think it is simple and strong. I took a threaded rod coup...
Let’s go over what my dimensions are: I used scraps I had around the shop, Base 32×16 x 3/4 melaminetable 36×12 x 3/4 melamine Arms 36×3/4×5/8 oakarm support (rides on top of the arm) 30×5/8×1 1/2tower 2 1/2×7/8×13 from the base You can see the arm top and arm are glued together perpendicular to each other for strength. The arms are attached about 4” in from end with the lower arm 3” off the base and the upper 8”...
First off I wanted to do some marquertry but shelling out $400 plus for a slow speed scroll saw was too steep. I tried to find a used one locally, but after a couple of months it wasn’t happening. Then I was going through some old issues of “Woodwork” magazine and found an article on building your own foot powered scroll saw. If you can find it, they are no longer around, it was the October 2006 edition. Anyway the guy who made it was Brian Condran (email@example.com) and...
This project is something a little different. It is a bedroom wall unit, not a murphy wall bed, but one with piers, headboard, mirrors and a light bar. The kind where the bed just sits in front of it. The twist on this one is I will be adding a canopy to it. This will be a canopy like the old waterbed style, with the mirrors in the top. I’ve built both the Accent style wall unit and the canopy in the past, but have never combined the two. I’ll start with a style that I built before an...
So, we decided that 72” was a bit overpowering. I yanked the pseudo-top out into the garage and cut a foot off, and then to preserve the Golden Ratio (we just watched a documentary about the Parthenon), cut the width down to 37”. This size is much better, and is more amenable to placing a Limbert Lamp Table or sideboard in the dining area. It seats six comfortably instead of eight, but we’d rather setup another table or TV trays instead of having a monolithic table 24/7. ...
So, between TreeFrogFurniture.BlogSpot.com and Robert Lang’s book “More Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture”, I decided that the corner of our dining room could stand an accent table. TreeFrog has built two different styles, so I “borrowed” the plans for the one I liked (he posted them online) and made my first template. I’m going to wait to make the interior template until I have the shell complete. The angles make things a bit messy. Like Tre...
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