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Here is the video where I built a cross cut sled for my table saw. Hope this is helpful and feel free to leave a comment. If you enjoy it or find it useful please like, comment, subscribe, and share. Woodshop Confessions - Cross Cut Sled
Scholars: When my wife and I were kids we picked up a lovely, battered 12-foot solid oak library trestle table from Duke Salvage for a couple hundred bucks. Two-inch top. It was our office table for years as we dragged it around with us, paying piano rate to move it. The top weighs, I dunno, 80,000 pounds. For the last 15 years it has been in our garage as occasional project table and world’s heaviest shelf. So my kids bought me a table saw and I am now a newly, hopelessly addict...
Wood prep before finishing The secret to perfect finish is proper sanding of your project. All surfaces should be clean and free from all dirt and oils. Prep sanding is done with progressively finer grits. On unfinished wood, prepare the surface by using medium grit paper first, and then progress to finer grades. With most raw woods, if you are hand sanding, start sanding in the direction of the grain using a #100-150 grit paper before staining and work up to #220 grit paper. You can make ...
As promised here is the latest design created this week. Look back each week to see what I will create next.This was drawn up in the morning,cutout, sanded and assembled that evening. The tail was taken from the Dragon’s tail or hinge design. I used google images of the real stegosaurs for my hand drawing. My wife is helping me to promote the Etsy storefront.Thanks to Tim and those who commented on my photos I am now using this dollar tree foam light box we made.I know this ...
Maybe I’m just the rebellious type, but when a friend told me it is not possible to steam bend kiln dried lumber, I just had to try. My plan was to create a wooden handle that had three tight bends in it. [ Continue Reading....] to see how I got it to bend.
What are the differences between stains and dyes? Very simply put: With stains, the pigment tends to remain on the surface of the wood and lodge in the pores, while dyes penetrate deeply and color the wood from within. Dyes Dyes are colorants that are usually mixed in a carrier vehicle (solvents) such as mineral spirits, water or alcohol. The dyes used in woodworking are characterized as transparent, as they bring about color changes in wood without obscuring the figure. The molecul...
A while back, I put together a set of links of random finishing topics which I posted in my blog, called Finishing Tips #5: Finishing tips #5. One of the links listed coved the topic of Chemical-Ebonizing as I saw an interest from some concerning the procedure, so this is the time to single out that process. This process does not use dye, ink or paint, and can be carried out quite easily. As a matter of formality follow proper safety precautions such as wearing safety glasses, hand prot...
Almost any finishing product can be applied over any other as long as the “other finish” is dry and the product you’re brushing doesn’t dissolve and smudge the existing. For example: Let’s for arguments sake you are not using spray equipment and that you have made up and applied a water based PVA blotch controller as describe in my previous article Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat 1 to a cherry surface. You then apply a water-soluble dye for color and let it dry completely. At ...
As previously mentioned in Preventing Blotching Using A Wash Coat #1, most any standard finish can be used as a wash coat. These are Lacquer (both waterborne and solvent type/nitrocellulose), polyurethane (both waterborne and oil based), Oil-based Varnish, and Shellac. The above being said, lets talk Waterbourne. It really makes no difference which you use waterborne lacquer, waterborne shellac or waterborne polyurethane since they all are simply water-borne acrylics—none are really lacque...
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