Before I started on the Persimmon Woodblock Percussion Instrument project, I did some research on the tone of persimmon wood. I had never made an instrument of any kind and hadn’t ever heard of persimmon being used, but what I found was encouraging. Here is a link I found to a long list of wood types and some notes about their tone. I was going to use the persimmon either way, but I did find the information in the list interesting.
View on YouTube This is an older project, but I finally edited the video. [Spektebla ankaŭ en Esperanto] Slit Drum A slit drum is a musical instrument in the percussion family. It is usually made from bamboo or wood in the form of a box with one or more slits in the top. The majority of slit drums have only one slit, but some have two or three slits in the form of the letter “H”. If the tongues have different lengths or thicknesses, the drum will produce two different tones.T...
Some of you all asked for this, hope you are not sorry. You can look back to my projects to see my first which is a teardrop style. This will be a hourglass style made from walnut and maple.Started the day by drawing a plan then cutting and planing some walnut for the sides 1 7/8 by appx. 34 by .130 which will be .125 after sanding. Since this is a hourglass style you need a form for the steam bent sides I made the form from some 2×4’s glued side to side for the width and added a p...
I have been reworking my shop lately. A large part of it was just cleaning out crap that was no longer used. Part of that crap was the sound system. It was an old FM tuner, record and cassette player someone had thrown out years ago. Quite frankly, it wasn’t much good and I wasn’t sorry to see it go. Then, earlier this summer, I found myself working in the shop and realized that I had missed a show on NPR that I wanted to listen to. As I thought about it, I realized that I miss...
I did say that things would slow down! This stage, for me, has been the most difficult so far. The books I’m following recommended gluing the purfling to the binding before bending them together on the bending iron. I found that to be disastrous, I (or the wood) suffered splitting, delamination of the black, white, black purfling and twisting. Oh what a mess! So I went back to what I’d thought would be the easiest before I read the books! Bend ‘em separately! Firs...
Postings will slow down somewhat now. This is what I did today. On the router table, trimmed off the overhang on the back of the guitar. Marking out and cutting out for the end-seam inlay strip: I’m using a piece of quilted mahogany / sapele that will match the headstock veneer: My purflings… (Good grief; look at the state of my thumbnail!) and bindings arrived today. Sorry, I didn’t make ‘em! Last thing I did was to super...
Time, just now, doesn’t allow many words to describe this process. It’s my first attempt an an acoustic guitar. I hope I have taken enough photographs to tell the story. Other than the spruce soundboard, much of the instrument is made from bits and pieces from the shed. Ah yes, I started to make jigs five years ago! This is why I made the thicknessing sander! To Part Two
Here are four banjo fingerboards in various states of completion. All four use a 24.75” scale length. The top one is some form of rosewood. It will be a very simple fretless fingerboard used on a tackhead banjo. That banjo will use violin pegs, so the bump on the side of that banjo is where the 5th string peg will come up through the neck and fingerboard. The second from the top is also some form of rosewood. It will be a partially fretted fingerboard, with a brass overlay bel...
A good friend of mine and local Accordion player of note, Tom Pearce, has ask me to collaborate on the refurb/ upgrading of an old instrument He’s done the initial separation of the parts He has asked if I can make a new carcass for it. This could be expensive and time consuming in solid wood (the first idea) but looking at it the plywood body is in good condition with some work needed on the plastic coating (green bit). Tommy is after a natural wood finish instead so I...
This is the laminated adjustable section after the clamps came off: It gets run through the planer and its pretty much done: These are the two halves of the main lower section of the stand. The insides are routed out to receive the adjustable post which will slide inside the lower section. I removed most of the inside on the router table. Then I finished it by using a palm router with bottom clearing bit until the slots were the perfect size. Checking the fit with the two...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1659 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1684 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- dbhost - 400 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 281 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 229 entries
- Betsy - 225 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- stefang - 206 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 200 entries
- robscastle - 189 entries
- Rustic - 189 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 188 entries
- Chris Davis - 184 entries