Hello All, I have an acquaintance who has done some large favors for me over the last couple of years. I was compelled to recompense him somehow, eventually insisting he let me make for him the woodshop project of his choice. After powwowing with his wife, they came back with three choices of an end table, and this is the one i decided to make: [URL=http://s242.photobucket.com/user/pac1for/media/EisTabOrig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff313/pac1for/EisTabOrig.j...
My Jet mortiser came with a brass screw to retain the hollow chisel. It worked fine, but was a little cumbersome to hold a screwdriver while setting the bit square to the fence.----- So I traded the screw for a handled knob. The new knob comes with the Powermatic 701 mortiser, and is compatible with the Jet JFM-5 and Powermatic 719. The knob has a threaded post with a brass tip to prevent marring the chisel. This setup makes it much easier to change and adjust the chisels. -----I also...
This build is going slow because each piece is complicated and because the steps are a bit different than the usual fair. I also ran into some complications with my mortiser bits. But the first step of the build is now done. I marked the mortises carefully And then cut them on the mortiser. Cleaned up the mortises with a chisel—done with the mortises. I cut the double curves on the front legs (back legs were already done) on the bandsaw. With this build, the instructions ...
Maybe this blog can help some newbies. Experienced woodworkers and those with good training (not me) know that you should cut the mortises and tenons while the stock is still rectangular. Since I didn’t remember this until after cutting some parts for a toy baby cradle to their curved shape, I had to find solutions to problems encountered when cutting some mortises and tenons. The first problem surfaced as I was cutting the tenons on an upper rails for the head board and foot boards....
OK, so maybe following me home is a little bit of a lie. I drove about 1.5 hours to go pick it up. ;-) Almost all the tools in my shop are craigslist finds and for the most part I’ve got all the power tools I need and even whittled down a few that didn’t see much use like a shaper. The last one I’ve been trolling for was mortiser. I looked at a few table top units like the Delta and really didn’t like them. Space being very tight in my shop I wasn’t sure I wan...
Right Click to DownloadRight Click to Download in HDSubscription Options If you make a lot of mortise and tenon joints, a Hollow Chisel Mortiser is a tool you should really consider. It makes quick work of the repetitive task of batching out mortises. And unlike the router, it leaves nice square ends that pair perfectly with tenons made at the tablesaw or cut by hand. This is a fairly comprehensive video and tells you pretty much everything you need to know to purchase, set up, and use a ...
Before I attack the stepped pattern, it made sense to work on the bridle joints that occur where the top of the posts meet the ends of the top rails. Using my super sled and a small attachment I made for cutting tenons, I made the mortise on the top of the posts using a standard blade by making a pass, rotating the board and taking another, before finally moving the fence and using a 3rd pass to clean up the center. The result is a perfectly centered mortise. The only problem I find I have wi...
Here’s a chain mortiser I picked up recently. These things aren’t too common these days, except for timber framers who use portable ones that clamp to the beam you want to cut a mortise in. This is an older model stationary mortiser with a 2 HP 220 volt motor. It’s very powerful and can hog out these through mortises in a 2×4 in about 20 seconds. The mortise this mortiser cuts is too long for cabinet doors, but it will work well for full-sized doors and for heav...
This is the newest addition in my shop. I realized it was necessesary to build this one for my upcoming projects that will require a lot of M/T joineries. Please watch my video at youtube to see how it works. Hope you find my jig interesting. Thanks
The second run of mortises is in the legs. The tenoned rails will surround the juniper panels. Rather than squirt the air after each two holes, I looped a hose clamp around the air gun and trigger and used a nut driver to control it. (Nut driver is resting on the screw for the photo only.) It didn’t take much air to keep the work area clean. It was easier to get a bore – slide – bore – stack flow going when there was no interruption to work the air. The mortis...
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