I got a little work done on the console which was to cut the mortises in the three brackets and the tenons in the aprons and mounting board. All the tenons fit with a snug slip-fit. In the dry assembly run I did notice that the shoulders of the tenons could fit more precisely, so a little more chisel work is in order. Once I’m satisfied with the fit of the tenons, I will start on doing the purpleheart inlays. I’m planning to rout a groove on the end...
So the next step in expanding my routing power is to get that thing banging out mortises – i like the idea of loose tenons, so I looked for a jig design with that flexibility built in. The router is by far the most accurate tool in my shop, much more so than my table saw, so that how i’ve been leaning. anyway, I looked at some jigs, most significantly the ones one these pages:http://www.woodsmith.com/issues/147/videos/setting-up-and-using-the-router-jig/http://thecraftsmanspath...
After working in the Valley for a couple of weeks, I decided to spend some of my harder than I thought earned money to get a mortising machine. I settled on the DELTA 14-651 because of its Amazon reviews and price point ($289). I would’ve loved to get the Powermatic, but that would’ve taken another year to justify ($480). I rationalized that with all of the mortises that I’ll need for the dining room table, that this additional expense will pay itself off on this on...
finally getting to work on the actual bowling alley part of the “bowling alley workbench”, although I really found Damian’s comment on a previous installment entertaining, and might refer to it from now as the “Alley Workbench”...lol. The top as can be seen in the sketchup model is made of 6 different components: Main Slab (nails and all), Dog holes strip, buffer strip, 2 skirts (front and back) and a breadboard End Cap. In reality this will change slig...
July, and it was pouring rain here in Boston, MA. for the past week. go figure. (although today it cleared out which is really nice). but enough about the weather (as if this will stop us). After completing the basic construction for the leg ends last installment. It was now the time to connect those with rails. The rails are 45” long with 2 1/2” tenon sticking on each side (to a total length of 50” – do the math). They are made of 2 2×4 that were jointed/plane...
Picking up where I last left off (each leg glued, and hand planed to clean out the glue lines), It was now time to get some assembly done. First thing First – gotta trim all legs to same length/height since during glue up some boards decided to move about. I decided to use a reference point that I could use on all legs that would match them all up – since different legs had different boards that moved around – the only reference point that I could use (and the best one of...
After so many of my fellow lumberjocks had so many helpful bits of advice about my new glass door cabinet design, I decided to go back to the “drawing board.” We decided to shrink the cabinet down to 50 so I could stay in the 2×4 rule. I think it made the cabinets proportions better. We also decided to go with raised panels on the bottom doors. I didn’t draw it but the cabinet will have a back like my previous project. I think this gives your pieces a quality that no p...
The 4th and 5th installment in the Arts and Crafts Panel Bed video series has been released! If you are intimidated by the through mortise and tenon joint, you should check out the latest videos. I’ll show you a method to make perfectly sized and spaced mortises without a mortising machine or router. For measured drawings and in-process pictures, you can visit the project page at Eagle Lake Woodworking:http://www.eaglelakewoodworking.com/post/Arts-and-Crafts-Bed-Stickley-Panel-Be...
The gate frame is joined with mortise and loose tennons, although there’s nothing loose about them. Cutting matching mortises is a two-step process. First is cutting the mortises to length (4 1/2”, bottom, 2 1/2” top), width (3/4”), and initial depth (about 1 1/4”) using the Mortise Pal jig. The second step is adding more depth to the mortises (2 1/4”). The largest mortise using this jig is 1/2” x 2 1/2” x about 1 1/4” deep. To prod...
Once the mortises have been cut in the legs, it’s time to cut the tenons on the aprons. After cutting the apron stock to the correct length and measuring the depth of the mortise we’ll cut the shoulders of the tenon joint on the table saw. These aprons are 3/4” thick, therefore the tenon should be 1/4”. Using the Kreg miter gauge, I’ll carefully saw the shoulders. I should have used a zero clearance insert, but was too lazy to make another, so I just used the oe...
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