With the two side assemblies glued together, I can now check the fit of the ladder back. -----Once you get the armrests fit, everything else seems to come pretty easy on this project. -----Here is a look at the beveled through tenons in the armrest.-----A 1/4” dowel secures the mortise and tenon joint. This is a fairly deep hole, and is best drilled with a brad point bit. Test the fit of your dowel stock in a scrap board, as a snug fit is key here. Hopefully you have glued the armr...
This is the Morris Chair I am building.-----Well it’s time to make the corbels so I cut a tongue on some 1-1/8” thick stock. The tongue is 3/4” wide to fit snugly in the leg dado. -----Once the tongue is cut, I place the corbel blanks in a jig to trace the curved shape. -----Here the shape of the corbel has been transferred to the blanks.-----I rough cut the corbels at the bandsaw, cutting as close to the line as possible.-----Next I pattern rout the corbels to final sha...
This is how the Morris chair looks at this stage.-----I wanted to drill all the 5/8” holes for the backrest assembly before the glueup. It seems like this step would be easy to forget, so I’ll take care of it now. -----There are a lot of odds and ends to take care of before glueup, including easing edges of the parts at the router table. -----Now the side assembly can be dry fit. -----Note that the angled top side rails are 1/4” taller than the shoulders of the leg tenon...
Here is where the project is at currently.-----Before I angle the top side rails, I mark the height of the small tenon.-----Then I trim away the excess tenon at the bandsaw. -----Fitting the small tenon into the back leg mortises. -----The joint looks a little peculiar at this point because the top rails have not been angled yet. -----With the frame dry fit I can measure the height of the side slats. -----With the repeater set up on my miter saw, I cut the 10 slats to the same length. --...
Here is the project at hand, a slant arm Morris Chair. I am working off plans from the Popular Woodworking April 2011 issue, which I recommend you buy. The Author is Robert Lang. He posted a free diagram to Sketchup, but with this detailed of a project, you will want to order the back issue. My techniques differ from Robert’s methods significantly, so I will try to elaborate along the way. -----I like to start by laminating the legs for quartersawn figure on all four sides. ...
There’s a new Little Good Pieces blog post: Outdoor Morris Chair 5 – Final Pieces. I attach the arms and do an initial assembly prior to painting. Check it out! http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com/2011/07/15/morris-chair-5-final-pieces/
There’s a new Little Good Pieces blog post: Outdoor Morris Chair 4 – Back ‘Er Up. I assemble the back of the chair. The techniques are simple, but effective. Check it out! http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com/2011/07/11/outdoor-morris-chair-4-back-er-up/
There’s a new post on the Little Good Pieces blog: Outdoor Morris Chair 3 – Finishing the Bottom. I complete the frame of the chair and add the seat slats. Check it out! http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com/2011/07/05/outdoor-morris-chair-3-finishing-the-bottom/
There’s a new post on the Little Good Pieces blog: Outdoor Morris Chair 2 – Making The Sides. I start construction of this simple but comfortable chair by making the sides. Check it out! http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com/2011/07/01/outdoor-morris-chair-2-making-the-sides/
There’s a new Little Good Pieces blog post: Outdoor Morris Chair 1 – Ready to Begin. I bring home the wood to build an outdoor Morris chair. Check it out! http://littlegoodpieces.wordpress.com/2011/06/17/outdoor-morris-chair-1-ready-to-begin/
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