I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
Thanks in large part to WhatTheChuck, I’m giving serious thought to changing the design of the underbody of the table. With all due respect to Schroeder's table, which I prefer the looks of in many ways, I think the lack of a footrest underneath is a good thing, and the spindles underneath are magnificent, yet kind of a waste of time, energy, effort, and lumber as they’ll be hidden by chairs. I think the trestle-style design might be more pragmatic, and still embody the simplici...
At first, I was enamored with #802, as done so well by Dale I looked it up in Robert Lang’s book “Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture”. I found an article on building it in Woodworking Magazine, Summer 2009 edition. I felt like I had done my homework and thought I might slip this in between the dining table and the chairs. We already have decent chairs. I didn’t really realize it until I saw Stickley Sideboard #818 at the Arts & Crafts Fair in San Fr...
I admit, I had a heck of a time when I first started with Sketchup; I was not getting it – and I have been working with software for 20 years. But I saw the value in Sketchup. I could create my own WW plans, and manipulate them like crazy to make sure everything fit, and that particular woods and finishes would look good together – before ever cutting a single piece of wood. I bought a “for Dummies” book, and watched some YouTube videos; I tried playing with it o...
Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements. --The dresser carcases are assembled, including the small divider that separates the top two drawers.--The small dividers are attached with biscuits. To cut the slots, I opened the top two web frames like a clamshell. The web frames were aligned, and clamped together. Then I added an Emerson straightedge clamp, positioned to center the small divider on the web frame. --The ruler on the Emerson clamp helps cen...
Foam ready to be glued to the seats with spray adhesive.-----Seats are cut to a pattern, allowing 1/8” gap around back legs. Edges are rounded over at the router table. -----Threaded inserts are located, and I used #8 machine bolts to attach the seats.-----Leather hides.----- Foam overhangs the seat by 1/2” in all directions. This helps to pad the side of the seat. -----Next wrap with high loft dacron, and compress the foam moderately. Staple the dacron (polyester batting) ...
I figured it was time to start another new blog. We’ve got friends that are getting married, and we wanted to give them something special. I figure the best gift you can give is one you want for yourself, so I’m going to make two while I’m at it. We originally thought about a mirror, but realized shipping it would be problematic. Then I thought about the clock project that had been bouncing around in the back of my head. After my usual extensive research, this is the de...
Alright, did a lot of work the past while, even though it seems like I haven’t. I’ve been busy working!I started with the footboard, I first lined all the slats up in between the rails. This was probably one of the most frustrating parts of this whole project. Once I got them all pretty well in there, I attached the rails to the legs and that sorted out the slats for the most part. Once I did that, I noticed that my mortises and slats and stuff didn’t quite look as nice a...
Following TreeFrog as closely as possible, I cut out the blanks for the sides. I cheated a tad and used the wedges from the prototype to establish the tapers on the sides. One one side, I used one wedge, on the second side, I had to use both to compensate for the previous taper. These were cut with the blade at 90 degrees to the table saw to give me a point of reference when I’m cutting the miters. I created the jigs to hold the sides stable while I cut them at a 44 degree mit...
Sharpening Chisels episode introduces two ways to sharpen chisels. ; With the help of Steve from Wood Working for Mere Mortals we explore these methods
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