I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
HelloThought if there is interest I’d start a blog about selling projects on eBay. RegardsDAN
I couldn’t find any reference for this on the site, so if I am re-posting the obvious, please forgive me. Project Gutenburg has 3 very detailed books on building mission furniture. they contain detailed plans (although not as detailed as some modern books) and they have LOTS of plans in them. The construction ideas are also very enlightening and worth browsing through (for example this swing) to make a long story short: Mission FurnitureHOW TO MAKE ITby H.H. WINDSOR PART IPA...
I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order. I cut strips of 3/4” quartersawn red oak, and resawed a few of them. I could then glue 3 pieces together to get my leg width. Finally, I glued on 1/4” thick stock to cover my jointlines. After the glue dries, I plane the thickness of these veneers to about 3/32”. That way, I get quartersawn grain on all 4 sides. I then milled s...
This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak. -----I started with some veneers for the legs. I resawed some 3/4” stock at the bandsaw, and planed them to thickness. Then I wrapped them with some shrink wrap to keep them flat. ----- The veneers are slightly oversized, and 1/4” thick. Although the finished veneers will be only 3/32” thick, I leave them thicker because 1) they are easier to glue up, and 2) they come out of the planer lo...
Here is my cherry refreshment table which will feature a single drawer and breadboard ends.-----I started by making breadboard mortises at the router table. The mortises are 1-1/4” deep and cut in multiple shallow passes. -----I used a 1/4” spiral bit to center a 3/8” groove in the breadboard ends. I made an initial pass in the standard right to left direction. Then I flipped the board end for end and made a pass from left to right to avoid a climb cut.-----I set up my t...
I finally had a day to work on our stuff. With a little urging from my girlfriend to finish the fumed table sitting in our dining room, I bit the bullet and gave it a good shellacing. This was my first time using shellac. It’s pretty difficult to work with, as it dries fast and leave a build-up. I cut the Zinser Amber in half with denatured alcohol, and grabbed a beer for myself (I thought it only fair), and went to town on it. It gave it a nice, rich look. When that dried, I ...
The Dining chairs are coming along nicely now, with corner braces in place, and a mock up seat cushion.We found some nice genuine leather today, that is the same color as the mock up.
Here is my process for cutting the inlay shown on Glen Huey’s mirror frame. First I used a 2-1/8” forstner bit to cut a hole for the template. The template is made from 1/4” mdf core plywood, and a couple 2” wide strips of mdf on the underside. The underside of the jig is shown here. The mdf strips trap the 3-1/2” workpiece, and center the hole. My walnut stock was less than 3-1/2” wide, so I wedged it in place. Here is the jig and the route...
I wanted to design an arts and crafts dining table that included arched rails and twin keyed tenons. I like several of the Stickley tables, but wanted something original. I like the feel of Keven Rodel’s Talesien desk, which served as inspiration for this table. The stack of parts is growing… Initial frame assembly… And the tabletop glueup…
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