I found another day off, so I immediately ran out into the shop before I could get distracted. I was able to finish the joinery on the base ends. As with everything else in life, the relative ease of the BeadLock Pro has disadvantages in repeatable accuracy. I don’t know how or why, but I do eight mortises and they only come out within 1/16” of each other. This has caused a 1/8” difference between the mortises, pretty much ruining my reveal on the spindles. I’ll f...
I was able to squeeze another good day in the shop around work. I ran off to buy some more oak, then got home and planed enough of it down to glue up the stretchers/aprons for the table ends. While the laminations were cooking, I decided to give the BeadLock Pro a whirl. Having made integral tenons with chiseled mortises, and loose tenons with the router, I have to say this method is considerably easier and faster. First, I was able to cut off the parts to their finished length, without...
We’ve been using the new top on top of our old table until I can finish the base. Over the last few months, the top has warped a bit, and was obviously out of alignment with the breadboard ends. While watching an old New Yankee Workshop online, I realized one of the things I did to cause this. I selected the boards for their aesthetic value, trying to match the grain to make it look like one solid piece of wood 38” wide. I neglected to alternate the boards’ growth rings,...
What’s happening in the shop for April 21, 2010. Prepping Springgay’s mission style murphy bed for the finish shop. Building Trimble’s alder murphy bed. Final assemble on the sports beds. For missed video and building pictures see my Current Projects link at wwbeds.com or poggyskids.com. Watch us live:
Well, it looks like I won’t have the money for Darrell’s class at William Ng’s school this weekend (or Disneyland either for that matter). I’m pretty bummed. I had to do the right thing and spend my tuition on sailing instructor seminars to further my “real” career. Luckily, the woodworking classes are offered often (I’ve got them all on the calendar), and Mickey will always be there. I may just have to bite the bullet and plunge back into the s...
I took everyone’s advice and went out into the shop this morning to fix the lock-miter. I ran a couple of test pieces of poplar through, both moving the fence forward and back (I kept the height the same to reduce variables). Ironically, although the two pieces of poplar fit together poorly, each one fit the previously routed oak very nice. Since I couldn’t figure out how to make that work, I just glued the legs up as is. I know, I know… Anyway, after sufficient time ...
Today, I bit the bullet and tried out my 45 degree lock-miter bit to make the four-sided quarter-sawn white oak 4” x 4” legs. I outsmarted myself by trimming the edges at 45 degrees. Unbeknownst to me, the router bit needs all the meat it can grab to make the “tongues”. As a result, I have very little “lock” in my lock-miter. I have just enough to register the corner, but I’ve lost about half of my glue surface. Sigh… The good news is that...
I ran over to the lumber yard and picked up some 4/4 for the base and a stick of 8/4 to make a single chair out of. I was going to finish the base before I started on the legs, but this 8/4 stick was magnificent (and I didn’t want anyone else to nab it). I recently posted a question in the Design Forum about possibly laminating 3/4” stock to make the legs 1-1/2”, but I couldn’t take any shortcuts (regardless of how cost-effective they might be) on the dining room set...
So I took a few minutes to draw this up in AutoCAD (sorry I’m not up to speed in SketchUp yet). The only dimension I had to assume were the front-to-back rails that intersect the middle of the chair back. I went with 3” because that’s what looked to scale, and gave room for a proper radius. I could’ve sprung for the $20 full-sized plans, but what’s the fun in that? The reason I drew this out is because the back is defined by a 7 degree angle. I thought it w...
So, the new top is in daily use. I put seven or eight coats of Bristol Finish water-based polyurethane on it. It’s a marine varnish for boat interiors, which I used on my old table, and it’s pretty impervious. No coasters required! It’s still sitting on top of the mock-up MDF and the old table, so it’s pretty high. I was going to start on the Rodel Taliesin base next, but since I made the leaves, I don’t have enough lumber to make the base, or the mone...
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