Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40073-----This is the bit I use, which is a Rockler item. You can still cut these dovetails in one pass with the PC jig. -----I trimmed some aromatic cedar plywood to size and test fit the drawers.-----Grooves were cut for the dra...
With the top built, it was time to turn my attention to the backsplash inlay and wedge detail. ----I cut a double sided taper on the backsplash piece using a tapering jig at the tablesaw. ----I saved my offcuts to make wedge shapes. The wedges were glued back onto the backsplash. I was careful to place the wedge in its original position so the grain would align. ---- The backsplash is carpet taped to a strip of MDF. This creates a straight reference point to cut shallow dados for m...
Here is the plan from my design. It incorporates some Stickley design elements. --The dresser carcases are assembled, including the small divider that separates the top two drawers.--The small dividers are attached with biscuits. To cut the slots, I opened the top two web frames like a clamshell. The web frames were aligned, and clamped together. Then I added an Emerson straightedge clamp, positioned to center the small divider on the web frame. --The ruler on the Emerson clamp helps cen...
It is now time to build the web frames that function as drawer dividers. The web frames are notched around the legs, and I decided to cut the notches with a dado blade. Here is my setup at the tablesaw with sacrificial fences on both the tablesaw and miter gauge. The result was nice crisp corners on the notches. This will be a visible joint at the front of the dresser. A bandsaw could also accomplish the task, but not quite as easily as a dado blade. After cutting pieces to ...
Dear Me, I have spent much of the day completing the 3D model of the dresser. I have used similar construction found in the curio cabinet we have that is amish made. I had originally intended that the dresser have 3 false drawers across the top and I found it did not look right. 4 false drawers look much better. Here is the link to the sketch up model.SketchUp 8 Next on the list of to do’s is to make a cut list. Then I can go about sourcing the wood. Weth.
If I have more that 2 parts to shape, I will make a template out of mdf. I prefer a nice solid jig made from 3/4” mdf with toggle clamps, however since I only had 4 lower side rails to make I kept it simple. After rough cutting the curve at the bandsaw, I used a 1/4” thick template carpet-taped to my workpiece. A pattern bit mounted in the router table makes quick work of cutting the gentle curves. I try to rout “downhill” on curved pieces. In other words,...
I spent some time card scraping and sanding the 1/2” thick panels for the dresser sides. I sharpened a fresh burr on the card scraper so it was cutting quickly. I use it on trouble spots, like tearout from the planer. I setup the tablesaw with a dado set and a sacrificial fence to cut the rabbets on the panels. They are rabbeted on the inside edge, which will produce a flat panel look on the outside of the dresser. I could have used plywood, but it can be tough to find quartersawn ...
Here is the plan for the 6 drawer dresser.Rabbeting the back legs for the rear plywood panels. I chose plywood over solid wood for some dimensional stability. The rabbets are stopped 1-1/2” from the bottom of the legs to match the location of the side rails.Mortising for pegs at the side rail locations.Mortising for pegs at the front rail location.Legs complete.Panels were glued up in two stages – first two pairs of 3/4” boards were joined. Then those 10” wide panel...
I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order. I cut strips of 3/4” quartersawn red oak, and resawed a few of them. I could then glue 3 pieces together to get my leg width. Finally, I glued on 1/4” thick stock to cover my jointlines. After the glue dries, I plane the thickness of these veneers to about 3/32”. That way, I get quartersawn grain on all 4 sides. I then milled s...
Here is my process for cutting the inlay shown on Glen Huey’s mirror frame. First I used a 2-1/8” forstner bit to cut a hole for the template. The template is made from 1/4” mdf core plywood, and a couple 2” wide strips of mdf on the underside. The underside of the jig is shown here. The mdf strips trap the 3-1/2” workpiece, and center the hole. My walnut stock was less than 3-1/2” wide, so I wedged it in place. Here is the jig and the route...
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