It is now time to build the web frames that function as drawer dividers. The web frames are notched around the legs, and I decided to cut the notches with a dado blade. Here is my setup at the tablesaw with sacrificial fences on both the tablesaw and miter gauge. The result was nice crisp corners on the notches. This will be a visible joint at the front of the dresser. A bandsaw could also accomplish the task, but not quite as easily as a dado blade. After cutting pieces to ...
Dear Me, I have spent much of the day completing the 3D model of the dresser. I have used similar construction found in the curio cabinet we have that is amish made. I had originally intended that the dresser have 3 false drawers across the top and I found it did not look right. 4 false drawers look much better. Here is the link to the sketch up model.SketchUp 8 Next on the list of to do’s is to make a cut list. Then I can go about sourcing the wood. Weth.
If I have more that 2 parts to shape, I will make a template out of mdf. I prefer a nice solid jig made from 3/4” mdf with toggle clamps, however since I only had 4 lower side rails to make I kept it simple. After rough cutting the curve at the bandsaw, I used a 1/4” thick template carpet-taped to my workpiece. A pattern bit mounted in the router table makes quick work of cutting the gentle curves. I try to rout “downhill” on curved pieces. In other words,...
I spent some time card scraping and sanding the 1/2” thick panels for the dresser sides. I sharpened a fresh burr on the card scraper so it was cutting quickly. I use it on trouble spots, like tearout from the planer. I setup the tablesaw with a dado set and a sacrificial fence to cut the rabbets on the panels. They are rabbeted on the inside edge, which will produce a flat panel look on the outside of the dresser. I could have used plywood, but it can be tough to find quartersawn ...
Here is the plan for the 6 drawer dresser.Rabbeting the back legs for the rear plywood panels. I chose plywood over solid wood for some dimensional stability. The rabbets are stopped 1-1/2” from the bottom of the legs to match the location of the side rails.Mortising for pegs at the side rail locations.Mortising for pegs at the front rail location.Legs complete.Panels were glued up in two stages – first two pairs of 3/4” boards were joined. Then those 10” wide panel...
I started the dresser like I start most of my projects, by laminating up some legs. I am making two dressers, so 8 legs were in order. I cut strips of 3/4” quartersawn red oak, and resawed a few of them. I could then glue 3 pieces together to get my leg width. Finally, I glued on 1/4” thick stock to cover my jointlines. After the glue dries, I plane the thickness of these veneers to about 3/32”. That way, I get quartersawn grain on all 4 sides. I then milled s...
Here is my process for cutting the inlay shown on Glen Huey’s mirror frame. First I used a 2-1/8” forstner bit to cut a hole for the template. The template is made from 1/4” mdf core plywood, and a couple 2” wide strips of mdf on the underside. The underside of the jig is shown here. The mdf strips trap the 3-1/2” workpiece, and center the hole. My walnut stock was less than 3-1/2” wide, so I wedged it in place. Here is the jig and the route...
Top finished Frame assembled Four-inch long T30 lags secure the top timbers. Laminated or not? By laying out my jointlines carefully, I was able to laminate some 8/4 and 5/4 together. The glueline is at the angle of the timber, so it is not visible. In addition, I laminated some thin veneers on both sides. Back to the project page… http://lumberjocks.com/projects/71281
I never would have guessed that cutting 4 mortises would take all afternoon. Because the mortises are angled to match the wedges, the fitting process takes a little longer than usual. I cut the first one by hand, then decided to cut the rest at the mortiser. Cutting past the layout line on the shoulder side of the mortise will ensure the joint pulls tight. Keys installed. A few taps on the wedges and the shoulders draw up tight. The keys were cut on the bandsaw. When the k...
End assembly joints are drawbored and pegged with 3/8” walnut pegs. I use this pounding block to set the walnut buttons to the right depth. The buttons conceal slotted screw holes that attach the breadboard ends. Next up is fitting the keyed tenons that connect the two end assemblies.
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