Here is a sketch of the nightstand I am working on. It features one 6” over two 8” drawers. -----Side panel components have been sanded, and the solid panels pre-stained. Now a final test fitting before gluing them up. The lumber is QSRO.-----A shallow groove in the legs will receive corbels. -----Side panels glued up. -----Front lower rails have been shaped at the router table, and finish sanded. Next up is the back panel and web frames.
After finishing a windows seat/banquette in my kitchen, I needed a table to go in front of it. For the design, I want several things: - single pedestal- split top to accommodate leaves- mission style, qtr sawn white oak- octagonal top I’d been hunting around for some plans and ideas, and none were exactly what I wanted. Two sources were… - plans I’d bought from Woodmagazine.com for a “Mission Dining Table”. It shows great info on making the octagonal top...
First a plywood base was cut to shape. It has (4) 1” holes to let air escape from the foam quickly. Then 2” thick medium density foam is cut 1/2” oversized in all directions. The foam is cut to shape on the bandsaw, and held in place with spray foam. Here, high-loft Dacron is stretched over the foam and stapled in place. -----Next, goat leather is stretched over the Dacron, and stapled in place. Caden did a nice job with the pneumatic stapler. -----Here Caden is ins...
The seat rails are notched as they intersect in the rear legs.-----Backrest glueup…-----Parts waiting to be assembled.-----Front leg assembly glued up. ----- Seat rail glueup.-----Wiping on the Transtint brown mohogany dye makes the white oak pop. Next up will be stain, lacquer, and leather upholstery.
I wanted to recreate this Jeff Jewitt finish from Fine Woodworking #157, however the article didn’t list which formula was used. I consulted with Jeff, and it was Transtint Brown Mohogany dye, followed by McCloskeys Walnut stain. McClosky no longer makes stain, but sold to Valspar / Cabot. ---So I set out to make a sample board to achieve the rich, dark color I was after. ---The top colors are stain only, the middle colors are dye first then stain, and the bottom color is dye only. ...
After mounting the slides, I used carpet tape to temporarily attach the drawer fronts. Slides are Centerline 757’s, and mounting is the same as my dresser project here… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/34281 -----Drawer fronts installed with 4 screws each.-----Since the drawers are graduated from 6” to 9”, I made a full sized pattern for the largest drawer. Then I marked the size of the other drawers, and used those lines to lay out all drawer pull holes o...
Arts and Crafts Entertainment Center / Sideboard #5: Wedge and Strap Backsplash, Trimming Top, and Staining
So this is where we left off with things last time…-----The entertainment center features a wedge and strap backsplash to match my 6 drawer dressers http://lumberjocks.com/projects/79208 -----Basically it is a shallow dado that receives a walnut inlay. I cut tapers on the backsplash first, then glued the wedges back on. I carpet-taped a strip of plywood to the backsplash to give me a straight reference edge to cut the dados (note to self: rip plywood strip before installing dado bla...
This is where I am at currently on the entertainment center.-----There is an interesting central splat detail, inspired by Kevin Rodel’s arts and crafts dining chair. -----It is a series of slats glued together with the thin parts let into grooves. I found it was best to cut the tenons before creating the stopped grooves. With my first trial I cut the grooves first, and experienced some chipout cutting the tenons. -----The splat has some nice shadow lines, and forms three small squ...
Arts and Crafts Entertainment Center / Sideboard #2: Pattern Routing Curves, Mortiser Mod, Side Panel Glueup
For those who are just joining, this is what I am building.-----Time to pattern rout the lower side rails with an arched shape. -----I made an oversized base with toggle clamps to hold my workpiece in place. After bandsawing the rail to rough shape I clamp it in the jig, and zip it to shape. -----Arch complete. ------I stained the front side of the floating panels, and built the side assemblies. I installed some 1/4” foam weatherstripping in the groove to help center the floating p...
Here is my setup for cutting half blind dovetails. I use a larger-than-stock 14 degree dovetail bit. I think it makes nicer looking dovetail joints, and they feel much stronger. Here is a link to my blog about the special bit… http://lumberjocks.com/topics/40073-----This is the bit I use, which is a Rockler item. You can still cut these dovetails in one pass with the PC jig. -----I trimmed some aromatic cedar plywood to size and test fit the drawers.-----Grooves were cut for the dra...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1597 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 96 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1622 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 279 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- shipwright - 218 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 187 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 176 entries