Here is the queen bed project I am working on…-----Before moving on to the headboard, I needed to install some button caps on the footboard. I start by chamfering a 15 degree pyramid on the end of some leg stock. -----Pyramid shape complete.-----Next I use the dado set to cut a tenon on the end of the button cap.-----Then the button cap is cut free.-----Finally I route a mortise for the button cap with a plunge router and spiral bit. -----Button caps installed on footboard. -----Now...
Here is the bed project at hand…-----I added some through tenons to complete the front legs.-----With the legs complete, it was simply a matter of constructing a mortise and tenon frame. The grooves for the panels are 1/2” deep, while the stile tenons are 1-1/2” long for added strength. This extra tenon length also helps to register the stiles in postion during glueup. -----Next I temporarily clamp the panel behind the frame, to transfer the opening size to the panel. -...
This is the queen size bed that I am building. Material is quartersawn red oak. -----I started with some veneers for the legs. I resawed some 3/4” stock at the bandsaw, and planed them to thickness. Then I wrapped them with some shrink wrap to keep them flat. ----- The veneers are slightly oversized, and 1/4” thick. Although the finished veneers will be only 3/32” thick, I leave them thicker because 1) they are easier to glue up, and 2) they come out of the planer lo...
Time to install the drawer pulls. My hardware requires two holes drilled 3” on center.-----I use this little jig to make sure all the holes are aligned correctly. It is a full-sized pattern, and works for the 6” and 8” drawers. I use Scott Collins “No Math” method to layout the pull location, which is discussed further in my dresser blog here… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/34346-----I register the left edge of the drawer against the stop on ...
This is the project I am finishing up. The backsplash was nixed due to a Lumberjocks poll here…http://lumberjocks.com/topics/50516 The tribe has spoken. -----So it will actually look like this…-----When spraying shellac on the drawers, I masked the cedar drawer bottoms to maintain the nice aroma.-----Nightstand stained and lacquered. -----After the lacquer cures for at least 24 hours, I wax the cabinet with Howard’s walnut wax. -----I use a scrap of drawer front stock ...
After a few weeks away due to travel and rainy weather, I was finally able to finish the table. The formula I was following was similar to what I used on an earlier folding step stool water based Transtint dye, sprayed shellac, and then as this was a table, Arm-R-Seal oil & urethane topcoat. I started with the dye, first wetting everything to raise grain, and then light sanding with 220 to knock down the stander uppers. I then mixed the Transtint Mission Brown dye power with distiller...
This is the nightstand project…-----Panel glueup for the tops. I do my glueups in two stages. First I glue two pairs of boards together to make planks. Then I send them through the planer while they are still narrow enough to fit. Finally I glue these two planks together to make a panel. I describe flat panel construction in detail in my dresser blog… http://lumberjocks.com/pintodeluxe/blog/33797-----A pair of rough glueups complete. -----I made a template for the corbels, w...
This is the project at hand…-----Empty carcase ready to accept web frames.-----Installing lower web frame with biscuits in front, and dado in the rear. -----Web frames are glued into the dados. -----Notched corners fit neatly around legs. -----Checking that web frames are all in the same plane. -----Through mortise and tenon.-----1/4” straight bit.-----With a straight bit chucked in router #1, I hog out most of the waste for the dovetails. This step is optional, but I fi...
Here is the design for the nightstand….-----I set about notching stock for the web frames. I use a dado blade, however a bandsaw would work too. -----The web frames are joined with biscuits, and checked with a straightedge. -----Web frames and more web frames…------One or two of the joints needed a few passes with a block plane. -----I glued the lower front rail in place, connecting the two side panels. It’s amazing how much strength a through M&T joint has. ------...
I made a lot of progress this past week. After getting the top together and cut to shape, I fitted it onto the sliders, and attached the tabletop levelers, to see how that would work, and to take a look at it all with the leaf pieces in place… success! The table sliders worked smoothly, and the top looks great all together. I then spent some quality time with the smoothing plane, raking light, and card scraper to get the top in final shape… some tearou...
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