Updated 1/16/12 I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sidesThe difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open. Here is how its done: Use the same pa...
Updated 1/16/12 This is the fun part! Its scary too! The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know. Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. But slow down Hot...
Updated 1/15/12 Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.I typically make the medallion about 1” to 1.5” smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion. We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do ...
After looking through some other blogs here on LJ and watching some Youtube videos I thought that the tumbling block cutting board was something that looked challenging, cool and something I wanted to try. I learned some good ideas from these other blogs and wanted to share some of my experiences having now made three of these, my setbacks and discoveries to better produce these tumbling block patterns. I purchased a Wixey digital angle gauge as it looked like you really needed to be accu...
Finally got some pictures taken of the cutting process so here is the promised blog .This is the is the cutter I use ( CMT box joint cutter set ) This is the sliding jig riding on the fence cheek ,glued and screwed together and nice and square to the fence with no play which is very imported.The cutter installed and tilted to 45 DEG. and a insert just for this cutting operation.Notice the pencil mark on the insert which indicates the setting of the fence for the first cut. The indexing...
One of the reasons I got my Rikon 14” Deluxe was to mill small logs into lumber and bowl blanks. In order to do this safely it is important to keep the log steady while pusing it past the blade. Here is my version of a log sled that I built for it 1) The base is 3/4” BB Ply. On the top I have placed two Incra tracks to help adjust the depth of cut. 2) I have added a runner to the bottom to ride in the miter slot on the BS. (it also fits in the slot in my router table ...
I have been asked to do a tutorial on how I made my Box Joint Bracelet I will be trying to go Step-By-Step and not leave anything out. I know I am missing a couple of pics but will try and explain things as good as I can. The first thing I would like to address is SAFETY There are many ways to do almost any process, depending on how you were taught/learned. Please be VERY carfull when useing your tools. I would hate to see anyone get hurt. Onward: I only used one piece of wood f...
Updated 1/15/12 Regarding wood movement:Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.This is what works for me. I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and l...
This is a router table I’m working on for my shop. I was able to incorporate most the features I needed and plan to use it often. It isn’t finished but most the major parts are in place. I purchased the Incra twin linear, router table top, woodpeckers router lift and the porter cable 7518 motor from Woodpeckers Inc back in 2002 or 2003. Finally, she’s in working order. Since the last post I was able to complete the rear ...
This Week I show you how to make a folding out feed table for your table saw. This design was based after an article and plan found in a 2009 issue of Woodworker’s Journal Magazine. Originally the plan was designed for a Cabinet saw with a Biesemeyer Fence System, so I had to make some slight modifications for my Porter Cable Saw. In this 3 part video series I show you a step by step on building this project as well as talk about the modifications I had to make. The Article and plans ca...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1611 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 96 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1636 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 279 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 222 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 198 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 187 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- robscastle - 180 entries