Updated 1/16/12 This is the fun part! Its scary too! The idea of taking a nice crisp box, one you have spent countless hours making, and attacking it with a tool designed for slag removal is…well…its a little disturbing. Maybe I was influenced by old Hitchcock movies more than I know. Seriously, what I enjoy is the freedom this gives me. Everything up to this point has been tied to measurements and careful setups. This is where we can cut loose a little. But slow down Hot...
Updated 1/15/12 Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.I typically make the medallion about 1” to 1.5” smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion. We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do ...
Intro: Hello to all and welcome to the first installment of Intarsia Basics. Before we can start cutting we need to select the wood we want to use and get our pattern ready. Wood Choices: I prefer to start with stock that is one inch thick because that gives you a lot of depth that you can work with. It will require a little more sanding on some areas but it will help to give your piece a 3D look. It is your choice if you prefer to stain your wood to achieve the colors or use exot...
Updated 1/15/12 Regarding wood movement:Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.This is what works for me. I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and l...
Several months ago on another forum, I posted a challenge to build a project entirely with hand tools. After several months went by I finally got around to starting on my own project, a jewelry box, and thought I would post it here as well in case anyone was interested. First step was to try sawing one of the chunks into 7/16 boards for the sides. I had picked up an old Diston rip saw a couple of years ago and now was the time to try it out. I clamped the board in my vice and had at it, b...
Checkerboard End Grain Cutting Board #1: Skecthup Model....ya, you heard me right...of a cutting board
I know what your thinking…this lunatic made a Sketchup model of a cutting board? Can’t he just wing it? Ya sure, I have made quite a few cutting boards with and without plans. The few I have done plans for were in Autodcad, to work out the design details, but this is the first time I have used SU for planning a cutting board. I wanted to be able to know exactly how much material I was going to need, and how it was going to have to be glued up so it would come out exactly as I want...
Updated 1/16/12 This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box. I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you. The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box. Chapter 10 will discuss this style. The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop stra...
This Week I show you how to make a folding out feed table for your table saw. This design was based after an article and plan found in a 2009 issue of Woodworker’s Journal Magazine. Originally the plan was designed for a Cabinet saw with a Biesemeyer Fence System, so I had to make some slight modifications for my Porter Cable Saw. In this 3 part video series I show you a step by step on building this project as well as talk about the modifications I had to make. The Article and plans ca...
Hello. I have now finished the tail vise, and today I had acually started work on the base. After I had got the dovetails for the tailvise fit and the pins on the guide rod I cut out the place for the pins to be inserted in the vise assembly. I then started work on getting the notches cut in the guide blocks for the sliding parts. Here you can see the guide rod in place, with the one guide block attached to the end cap with a notch for the guide rod to slide through aswell as a small notch...
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