Updated 1/15/12 The “Art Box” concept came about when I was looking for a way to use small pieces of some figured Myrtlewood I had leftover, not large enough for a box, but not something I could not throw away either. I decided to feature it in the lid of a box, like a picture in a frame. Keep that picture frame in mind when selecting the small piece for the medallion. You might select that picture piece first and then find a less figured wood to use for the lid and body, one that sets it...
This second part will concentrate on the layout of the rolling pin blank in preparation for cutting the slots. Create a blank that is 22” long and 2” square. Locate the center of the length (11”) and carry a line around the blank. The ellipses are 11” long and made of three pieces of 1/8” thick materialLayout a mark 5 ½” on either side of the center line and accurately carry the lines around the blank. To assist in laying out the diagonals, use a 3/8” thick spacer gauge, drawing lines...
Updated 1/15/12 We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue. This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very s...
Updated 1/15/12 At this point we have a box body with corner splines.Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE! For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we d...
Hello. This is a video showing the process I go through to make wooden screws. I briefly try to explain how it is set up and show the jig making the screw. I will soon have a video on making wooden nuts aswell. I will eventually make a video showing how to make the tap and screw making jig and explain how to create the size of screw you want. I’m sure there are many other ways to make nuts and screws but this is how I do it and it works fairly well, the main downside being that I can ge...
Updated 1/15/12 Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.I typically make the medallion about 1” to 1.5” smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion. We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do ...
After my detour to make this box, I’m back to working on the box that is the subject of this blog series. Today I worked on the small details of the trays. The longer I make boxes the more I realize that it’s the small details that distinguish a well made box. Unlike larger furniture pieces, boxes beg to be picked up and examined closely and in detail. There is no such thing as a hidden back or bottom; all surfaces need to be treated with equal importance. The series of p...
Once the blank has the layout lines drawn, it is time to cut the slots for the ellipses. The first step is to set the blade height. When the cut is made, there should be about 1/8” of material left holding the two sides together. This really aids in the glue up by keeping the pieces aligned. Set the blank on the jig and adjust the angle and the end stop so that the front SHORTER layout line is positioned to the LEFT side of the blade cut. Orientation is when you are standin...
So after we've got the bowling alleys. now it’s time to put them to to use (not really ‘now now’ but … you know what I mean). So, I really would like to make this one a keeper, and not have to redo this bench unless I really fancy it in the future with lots of extra time on my hands and nothing better to do with it (hence – not likely it’ll happen), and in order to do that, I figured I’ll make this one as close as I can to the ‘ultimate’...
So having read part #1 I’ll complete the second variation of the Drunken checker board pattern. The process is basically the same except for one critical part and is as follows. Start again by taping two blanks together. This time In stead of making opposing S cuts I’ll follow the S pattern with each cut. (I get a little sloppy, but it works out OK). Follow the Part #1 procedure. CRITICAL PART! This step creates the difference between the pattern in part one ...
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