We have just been featured in the October issue of New Mexico Magazine. This two page spread talks about us as artists and how our beautiful surroundings inspire us. It shows off our Shangrila II rocker, a dinning chair and the Hemesphere table. It was very exciting to have this article done on us and it came out better than expected. We had a lot of fun with both the writer and photographer when they came all the way out to our place for this article. The calls and emails are coming in from ...
Some of the most talented people in the world work in complete anonymity. If they are lucky after death somebody discovers their work and it becomes something of value. A professional should receive re numeration for their work and money too! Ha! How do you make the necessary connections with a qualified customer? What Is Your Brand? For years I was a general furniture maker. I built a large number of beds, tables and cupboards. I was a furniture maker with very little identity in a tow...
It’s been a long time since I made a blog post. I’ve been taking photos throughout the process, but I havent had a chance to update the blog. So here goes: The last post left off with the seat carved out and sanded to 80 grit. The next step was to shape the curve on the front with my trusty spokeshave (its not that trusty. I’m not good with hand tools, but I’m learning). Hal recommended sanding the seat at this point all the way to 1000 grit (abralon pads)...
I am a professional woodworker, instructor and publisher. My instructional bundle titled “Build A Maloof Inspired Rocker with Charles Brock” has helped fine woodworkers all over the world to make their rocker a reality.My newest project is Build A Maloof Inspired Low Back Dining Chair with Charles Brock. Part five is my opinion about acquiring the tools of the trade. I hope you enjoy! While teaching a recent woodworking class, I was asked a question in front of the group that ...
I am a woodworker, teacher and publisher of woodworking instructional bundles consisting of DVD, book, full-size patterns and on-line support. Build A Maloof Inspired Rocker with Charles Brock has sold to hundreds of fine woodworkers all over the world. My newest project Build A Maloof Inspired Low-Back Dining Chair with Charles Brock will be available soon. When teaching woodworking classes I can quickly tell if a woodworker’s style is that of an artist or an engineer or somewhere i...
I’ve been wanting to build a Maloof style rocker for about as long as I’ve been a woodworker (about 4 years I think)... I always put it off thinking that my skills werent there yet (still think that). I decided I’d wait until my wife and I were expecting our first child, and then I’d take the plunge and build one. Well, here we are. I need to have the chair done by Oct 5 :). So, my other project is going to have to wait (Arts and Crafts Dining Table). I started...
Part 2 of my chair build—based on Hal Taylor’s plans. With the seat glued up, it was time to flatten it, trim it to size, and cut the notches for the back legs. In terms of flattening, I just wanted it flat enough to get square edges when I cut it on the table saw. I didnt need a perfect surface since it was going to be carved out and shaped later. To cut the 3”x3” back leg notches, I clamped the seat to my miter gauge that had a tall sacrificial board ...
I didnt take a whole lot of photos of the front legs, but here are the few I got: Post #1 shows the slabs and the pattern that was used to outline the front legs. The first photo shows me rounding over the maloof joint to match the radius on the seat side of the joint. The maloof joint was cut the same as the back legs, but without the 6 degree splay (see the previous post). Fitting the joint: The next step was to add the adder block. I dont have a photo of it, but th...
Ok, finally after about 8 months of work (in my spare time between full time job and full time school), all of the pieces are done. It was time to assemble and glue up the chair! I started by gluing on the back legs. I used clamping blocks cut at 6 degrees so that the clamps would be square with the faces of the legs which cant out at 6 degrees. Once the front legs were shaped (see Part 5), I attached the adder blocks for the arm transitions. These blocks were cut from the same s...
The legs were cut from bookmatched slabs shown in post #1. The first step was cutting the pattern out of the blanks. With the legs cut, I marked the inside portion that needed to be removed: Next, I added an adder block for the seat joint. Unfortunately, I didnt get a shot of the initial glue up of the adder block. Since, the legs splay out at 6 degrees from the seat, the adder block needed to be cut at 6 degrees relative to the leg itself. To do this I made a 6 degree...
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