LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'mahogany'

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View ShaunMeighan's profile

Making a Spoon on the Lathe

08-15-2017 07:20 PM by ShaunMeighan | 0 comments »

View on YouTube

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View TungOil's profile

Dining table inspired by the Greene & Greene Thorsen table #20: Top Assembly, and Ebony Plugs & Splines

08-07-2017 01:06 AM by TungOil | 4 comments »

With the bases complete I now assemble the two halves of the top with the table slides and temporarily attach the bases. This allows me to fit the alignment pins for all of the leaves. To bore the holes for the alignment pins I make up a jig that locates the holes precisely. With five sets of pins and sockets it is critical to get them all aligned. With the alignment pins in place I can now accurately mark the edges of the leaves for final trimming, which I do with a straight ...

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View Viking Carpenter's profile

Woodworkers heart

08-02-2017 06:53 PM by Viking Carpenter | 0 comments »

This is me making wooden heart out of mahagony and apsen.The job was pretty easy, just keep an eye on your fingers :) View on YouTube

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View TungOil's profile

Dining table inspired by the Greene & Greene Thorsen table #19: Finish Sanding and Assembly of the Bases Plus Some Ebony Plugs

07-30-2017 04:04 AM by TungOil | 16 comments »

In preparation for glue up I sand all the parts with 120 then 220 using a random orbit sander. I split the work between the Bosch ROS65EVS which is a nice sander to use (very little vibration) and the smaller Bosch ROS20EVS which is more like a palm sander in ROS format and better for the smaller parts. To clean up the round overs and other details I have a few sanding blocks I like as well as the ubiquitous folded sheet. It’s boring work but crucial to getting a nice finish later. ...

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View TungOil's profile

Dining table inspired by the Greene & Greene Thorsen table #18: Clamping Cauls, Finger Joints and Square Plug Stock

07-24-2017 03:39 AM by TungOil | 8 comments »

In preparation for the glue up of the angled joints in the two bases, I make up some special clamping cauls. The cauls allow me to position clamps to pull the mortise and tenon joints together parallel to the tenons. The cauls have a 60 degree block glued to them to complement the 30 degree angle of the joints. Each has a piece of sandpaper glued to the back to prevent slipping. There are 6 large cauls for the lower stretchers and two small ones for the top stretcher. To check ...

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View TungOil's profile

Dining table inspired by the Greene & Greene Thorsen table #17: Completing the remaining mortise and tenon joints

07-17-2017 04:04 AM by TungOil | 7 comments »

With the first set of mortise and tenon joints finished its now time to complete the remaining mortise and tenon joinery. To maximize strength, I cut a double 2” tenon in my stretchers and aprons. The tenons are offset to the outside to maximize the tenon size on the 30 degree angle. The Leigh FMT Pro handles angled tenons up to 30 degrees easily. There are six angled joints on each pedestal base. Any error in the angle of the setup will be multiplied across the...

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View TungOil's profile

Dining table inspired by the Greene & Greene Thorsen table #16: Starting the pedestal bases

07-10-2017 01:41 AM by TungOil | 6 comments »

In preparation for all of the angled mortise and tenon work in the base, I’ve been watching Craig’s List for a few months. I picked up a nearly new Leigh FMT Pro and a second Bosch 1613 EVS plunge router to dedicate to the jig. Both were hardly used. I spent a few hours setting everything up. After aligning the router to the mounting plate on the FMT, I ran a few test cuts with some scrap oak to dial in the templates. The FMT is a well engineered jig and is prett...

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View TungOil's profile

Dining table inspired by the Greene & Greene Thorsen table #15: Leaves and Tops- Finishing Touches

07-06-2017 09:47 PM by TungOil | 3 comments »

With the edge pieces assembled to the leaves, I can finish up trimming the long edges. I start by making up a straight edge with a shallow rabbet to guide the router. Clamped to the leave, I route the ends of the edge pieces flush. The rabbet allows the straightedge to lay flat and clear the slightly raised edge pieces. I trim the edges with a flush trim pattern bit. For now I will leave the outside edges of the leaves about 1/16” oversize and trim to final size after I...

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View Dave Rutan's profile

Shopmade Luthier Tools #23: Violin Crack Clamp

06-21-2017 09:19 PM by Dave Rutan | 5 comments »

Last week I found a violin in the bone pile that looks like it’s trying to crack in half lengthwise. Not having any appropriate clamp to hold such a thing together for gluing, I put my mind to it and came up with this clamp. I made it out of 3/4 inch mahogany, using two pieces on each side. I did that so that I could easily create the groove on the inside of the curved parts to engage the lip on the edge of the violin. The groove is shallow so the clamp body won’t press...

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View TungOil's profile

Dining table inspired by the Greene & Greene Thorsen table #13: Final Table Edge Routing

05-29-2017 10:55 PM by TungOil | 3 comments »

With the table edges assembled, the next step is the final pattern routing of the outside profile. I route the final shape after the edges are assembled to be sure the ellipse is smooth and continuous. I start by leveling any minor misalignment between the edges with an 80 grit disk on the random orbit sander. The assembled table top is about 1/16” larger than the outside pattern to allow for the final shaping. I use a solid carbide spiral upcut bit to get the smoothest finis...

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