I haven’t written an entry for over two weeks, the combination of being on the road (I happen to be among the select few ever to ride in a commercial jet from Montgomery AL to Columbus GA, not that either airport was scheduled in my itinerary) and attending the wedding of the couple to whom this table will be given. Since the last entry, dry fit the whole table, decided what radius to put on the shelf on the waterfall edge (the inside of the leg is narrower than the shelf), and darke...
I had to re-make the spline jig because I made it out of 1/4” ply and my bushing is just shy of 1/2” tall. So it just took a few minutes to make one out of 1/2” ply. I measured and measured. Using a combination square set to 2”, I carefully marked the location of the jig. After doing one side of the joint, I then flipped the jig, used the square to precisely set it in place, and then cut the mortises on the other side of the joint wit the router. Then came sq...
I will cover a few days in this entry, a little time working each day over the last few days. I needed to mill the walnut to two glued up 3/4” thick pieces for the shelf and second leg. The boards were not completely flat nor straight, so a little jointing was necessary before putting them in the thickness planer. Who says one has to have a power jointer to get it done? Got a nice pile of shavings out of this board: There were 3 knots on the backsides of the board I had t...
I know I make mistakes when I get hurried, so I wanted to make this important cut when I first came into the shop. I finally took the plunge. Covered the cut lines with tape to eliminate splintering: How’s it look? Now it its time to cut the corresponding angle on the leg. And . . ? Wonder if it will fit together? This might actually work!
Because woodworking is a hobby, I only get an hour or two a night (at most) in the shop on weekdays, and I travel a fair bit, so sometimes progress is a bit slow. Tonight I did a fair amount of cleaning in the shop (the spray of wood chips from flattening the boards went everywhere). The most important task was setting up the crosscut. As you can probably tell, I feel like this is the single most important task of the entire project, so I am taking it slowly. Tonight I drew the line to ...
Live Edge Cherry Coffee Table from the Beginning #6: Filling in the Knot; making the Spline Jig; choosing the Cut-Line
The board had one large knot at the end of the board. The knot was fairly soft, so I dug it out a bit and filled it with epoxy mixed with the router shavings from flattening it. I did not like the look I got—looked like melamine. I dug out the knot from the other side and used finer sawdust instead of the router shavings (what I’ve done before). But the knot is so large that it now looked like I had filled it with MDF. So, I used a chisel again and shaved off a 1/16...
I don’t usually sand with 60 grit, but I went through disc after disk getting the last of the bark off the sides and getting it rough sanded. I’ve left a tiny bit of the inner layer of bark here and there because it is quite difficult to get all of it off. I will apply a bit of finish over a section at some point to see how it looks before deciding if I need to go the extra mile. Because of the sharp angle on most of the edge, it will not be particularly visible day to day. He...
For the waterfall leg, I’m using Full Blind Multiple Splined joinery as described by Tage Frid. I discovered this method by asking a question in a forum post here on LJ. Thanks to Woodendeavor and Randy-ATX for directing me this way. I purchased three of his books. This description is found on pp. 102ff of Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, Book 1: Joinery The joint looks like this: The two biggest keys will be to cut the slab correctly and building the jig so the miters line up...
Mesquite Slabs 10/4 thick, 24-36” wide, 17’ Long. Would make great conferance table or bar top. Check out the figure in these!!
I’ve been working on a live edge Bubinga bar which is now finished. I came across a little bit of footage of the third piece of live edge Bubinga I had to apply and epoxy bar top finish to. I used System Three – Mirror Coat I first sealed the wood with my poly/oil mix and let dry for about a week before the epoxy application. Mix, Pour, Spread, Torch and wait…..... Thanks all for watching hope you enjoy, any questions or comments please post! http://www.youtube.c...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1391 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Just for Fun... - 84 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1415 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 389 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- mafe - 229 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 194 entries
- Rustic - 185 entries
- shipwright - 184 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- stefang - 168 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 167 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries