Ok, ready for cutting the top off this box. Fingers crossed… The maple sides have some figure in them, so I have been looking for a finish to maximize the shift in luster depending on the angle of view, a.k.a. 3D effect, a.k.a. chatoyancy. Just wanted to share my findings from the internet here… It turned out that maximizing chatoyancy and making the figure more visible are two different things achieved by different means. I guess, the former is sometimes also cal...
I built this table for Summers Woodworking contest. I used an old ratty 2×4 stud from a demolition project. I milled enough pieces from the one 2×4 for 2 of these tables, but have only had time to complete the first so far. I have been thinking about my design tendencies lately and wanted to break out of the mold a bit with this one. I usually build tables with a structural apron that secures the top, but I decided to try to make the top structural in this case instead. I lik...
My schoolmate tried one way of ebonising wood which our teacher heard from someone. The essence is carbonisation in linseed oil without access of oxygen. In the proccess water from maple wood was evaporating. The result is still flexible. We think oil replaced water. Gluing is not problem.
Some friends visited a few days ago, and commented upon some of my work (it’s hard to avoid – the house is full of it), and, in particular, the finishes on some of my more recent work.There are many many things in the sphere of woodworking at which I am not very good, but, after several years, I can now reliably get a really nice, oil-only, finish on my pieces. It’s silky smooth, very tactile, and has a soft satin sheen.My method differs from anything I’ve seen or read...
Two questions for the woodworkers who are also chemists: I have some thick CA glue, so thick that I can no longer use it. Now I know that I can add acetone as a thinner to normal thick CA glue to make thin/thinner CA glue, but can I also add acetone to the thickened thick CA glue to reconstitute it? I have already tried this and have used the results on some jigs, but my concern is more whether this reconstituted CA glue will have its full strength, such that is is suitable for real proj...
I found this bit of helpful information in a magazine, and just wanted to share. Dip a rag in a container of boiled Linseed Oil, and wipe it onto a sanded tool handle (shovel handle was shown).Let the oil soak in for a few minutes. The wipe it off the excess with a dry rag. I haven’t tried this, but I’m thinking it might work on cutting boards, and butcher blocks as well.
Recently, I asked Guild members to help me select a finish for my new wall-hanging tool chest. We had the standard options including water-based poly, shellac, lacquer, oil-based poly, and oil & wax. Although water-based poly won with 27% of the votes, there was a very vocal minority (you know who you are lol) who wanted to see the oil & wax finish. So this resulted in a number of discussions about oil & wax and what kind of value this finish has to a woodworker. Personally, I...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1563 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 96 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1588 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 395 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 276 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- shipwright - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 188 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 181 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 175 entries