Now that the plank lines are set I need to glue on each plank starting in the middle of the boat and working down towards what will be the top edge, or sheer in boat-speak. Each plank will overlap the one below it which makes the shape of the planks very visible. If they are well shaped they plank lines create a beautiful flowing shadow lines and accentuate the curves of the hull. If they are off it starts to look goofy fast! The planks next to the keel are called garboards (no idea why) a...
A bit of progress on lining off the planking to post. This went easier than I was expecting, once I read up on how it’s done. Basically the sheer line (top edge of the boat hull, bottom edge here) is fixed and you want plank lines that are mostly parallel but a bit wider near the middle than in the ends. Other than that the top planks are similar in width and get wider toward the bottom of the boat and I knew that this boat is planked with 7 planks. From there its just trial and error u...
The First Garboard Plank The first plank is on! It has been the most difficult part of the build so far. I’ve gone through 4 planks to get it right. For my fellow LJers who may be wondering, I’ve put in a few hours here and there, but I’ve taken quite a bit of time away from the project since the holidays. I’m exciting to be focused again. The challenge with this is getting the plank flush and tight into the rabbit along the keel. It’s a tough plank bec...
I finished lining off the planks today. Lining off is the process with which you project the final plank layout onto the hull. My first attempt at this didn’t go so well. Thanks to some suggestions from some fellow lumberjocks, I took the time to learn more about the process and I’m much happier with the results. The book, Building Small Boats by Greg Rossel, as recommended by DaveR, is an exceptional resource and I basically used the process in the lining off chapter. Results ...
Just a few more steps left before I can start putting the planking on the sides. Cutting in the Rabbet Between Stem and Keel The next crucial step is cutting in the rabbet between the Stem and Keel. This was done entirely by hand with a few sharp chisels. I used a small piece of wood (3”x1”x3/8”) as a template, representing the plank, to ensure a smooth transition as I cut away the rabbet. Here is the before picture: And the after picture. This was done on both ...
This next part is cutting the rabbet into the Keel and Stem. The rabbet is a groove for planking to butt into. The rabbet must be accurately cut in order to form a tight seal. The rabbet for sunshine runs down both sides of the stem as shown and continues along the keel to the stern. Keel Rabbet Cutting the Rabbet in the Keel was relatively easy since I had already beveled the keelson from the lofted lines in the Stem and Knee - Part 2 section. To me, it seemed practical to try ...
It’s been a busy month for other things, but I’ve made some good progress on the boat. I’ve also managed to find some great planking lumber, with a great story behind it, which I’ll write about a bit below. But first, update on the transom which now completes the stern. The transom is attached to sternpost with 5 countersunk #10 bronze screws which are covered with matching cherry plugs. Later on, I’ll epoxy in and cut the plugs off flush. And a ...
This is the construction of the Keel, Keelson, Skeg and Sternpost. These solid oak parts form the bottom backbone of the boat. I started by cutting out the shape of keel and keelson by transfering the measurements from the lofting. The keel is the thicker piece which be on the very bottom of the boat. The next step is to put a rolling bevel on the edge of the keelson. The intention is for the bottom planking to fit perfectly into a beveled “notch” that is carved into the...
Greetings.. Things are moving along well with the boat construction. This part in the series is cutting out the stem and knee parts which form the front “backbone” of the boat. To do this, I created templates from 1/8” birch plywood and used those as patterns to cut the actual parts from 2” thick white oak. To get the shape of the templates, I used the same picking up method as I used when getting the shapes from the drawing to the actual molds in part 2. This in...
I’m starting construction of the stem and knee by making sure that I have these parts drawn correctly on the full size drawing (lofting). I could really use some advice before I actually cut out the parts! The photo below is the front section of my lofting. I used photoshop to make the lines and sections of the stem more visible. The stem is actually two parts as shown in the lofting below. The red section is the stem and the green section is the knee. I’ll make luan templates ...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1198 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 87 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Just for Fun... - 81 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Workshop Development - 67 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1220 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 388 entries
- dbhost - 333 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 301 entries
- Martin Sojka - 297 entries
- Karson - 294 entries
- William - 249 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- mafe - 208 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 187 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- Rustic - 183 entries
- PurpLev - 162 entries
- shipwright - 160 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 159 entries
- stefang - 145 entries