I had previously finished laminating the two halves that would make up the top. I made two 12” wide sections, ran each through the planer to smooth and true up the tops and bottoms, and ran each mating edge across the jointer. And as I wrote in the previous blog entry, one of the halves already has the finished wagon vise built into it. The two halves were now all done and ready to be glued. It was tricky maneuvering the two parts in the final glue up, as each section was heav...
I wanted to make the bench’s stretchers as proportionately beefy as the top and legs. Since my legs are 5” square, I figured it would work well, and look good, to make the stretchers about 3 1/2” high, and about 2 1/2” thick. So I had to AGAIN joint, plane, glue, clamp and wait some more. I’ve been getting kind of bored of doing glue-ups, so I’m glad this was the last laminating I’ll have to do on this project. I want to integrate 3/4” thick...
After completing the new counter top, my next step will be to breakdown the adjacent cabinet that I used to store my 13” planer and bench top router table. Eventually, I will store the planer on the bottom shelf of the workbench. I have been eyeing the Maste-R-Lift from JessEm for a while so I thought this would be a good time to invest. First I glued and screwed together 2 pieces of 27×20” 3/4 MDF and edge glued and biscuited some scrap 3/4 ash to the sides. Here i...
Here’s where the magic happens. After all the milling and ripping and glueing and re-sawing, we finally get to see if we can really match the lines all around the box. Sure we can. After planing each piece to thickness and ensuring the ends are square, open them up in a book-match. Draw a chalk line at the approximate width of each of the boxes’ ends from opposite ends (this is just to identify the parts). The pictures below explain it better than I can in words. I like to l...
It’s interesting how it feels like you’re standing still when you’re working on already dry-fit parts for additional features. After all – at the end of the day when you look at all the parts – they seem to look just the way they did in the morning. bummer. but even though things don’t seem that way somethings. Progress IS progress, and is one step closer to the finish line. Today I implemented the hardware for the leg vise in the right leg (I’m...
I’m building an 18” V-Drum Sander from http://www.stockroomsupply.com/V_Drum_Sander.php Stockroom Supply. I was given a Particle Board piece to use as a top it’s laminated with a thin slick veneer top and bottom. I’d like to band the edges with Oak that I already cut and mitered. The question is how to attach the Oak to the Particle Board edges? I’m read plenty of horror stories about splitting the Particle Board when using screws and/or nails to attach it. ...
Melamine is notorious for chipping out when cutting. In this video I share my tools and techniques for creating clean cuts on both sides of melamine. The blade I use in the video is a Freud LU97R010. It makes the cut on the back side as clean as on the top side. The images of the cuts in the video are of the backside of the material where chip-out tends to occur. (I did not make that clear in the video.) In Part II I will show you how to apply edge banding. This is not just instr...
Pics will be in a few minutes… Where exactly did I leave off last time…ahh the main body is essentially done, and now all the adjustment features are all that’s left. Boxing The one weakness of cherry for planes is that it’s just a little bit soft. Not much softer then beech, but enough that a harder sole will help over the years. Especially on a fillister or rabbet plane where almost all of the wear is on a corner. I chose bubinga to box it with, because its ...
And what a weapon it is!!Extremely well made, heavy- 12.5 ounces (without the handle), sharp, and the blade is mounted on the axle so there is absolutely no “wobble”. No pizza stands a chance against this mighty duo!— Emma wanted something to match her stunning outfit so a laminated blank of cherry, maple and walnut was glued up.— After mounting in the lathe, a hole is drilled to accept the threaded insert. As per the instructions, this is a 15/32” brad point bit. The hole i...
If you’ve ever struggled with setting inset doors, I have an easy method for you.
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