The restoration is completed. I am still waiting for the new jointer knives to arrive but everything else is completed.Cost for restoration was $130 (belt, paint, knives, dust chute, steel for mobile base). Jointer was only $200; so for $330 I have a 8” jointer that’s as good as new. I added a longer electrical cord. The original cord was too short.
I maneuvered the jointer from the saw horses to the stand. This turned out easier than I thought; without any help. Still need to drill some holes to attach a dust chute I purchased. Next will be to install the new jointer knives. Still waiting for those to be delivered by mail. Then I’ll attach the fence and all it’s components and it will be done. I’ll put my 6” jointer up for sale to help make more room in the garage. This Delta jointer is 77” long.
This weekend I finished cleaning underside of the jointer. Then I removed the old knives and cleaned up the cutter head.There is some pitting on the cutter head but that won’t affect performance.I ordered new knives from Infiinity Tools; they should arrive in 5-7 days. The fence and all it’s components are ready for re-assembly.
Trying to find out about a Hall and Brown no.1 12 inch jointer. Needing to know the size of blades it takes width, thickness. Anyone with any info at all about this jointer please let me know. I have a guy that is wanting to trade me this jointer for a New Britian chain mortiser made in 1901. Any info at all will be appreciated. Thanks in advance .
Got the top stainless steel attached. I ended up holding them in place with two screws each, carefully tightened to hold them tight without distorting them. (It’s really amazing how much force a screw can exert) Then clamped the the two tables together face to face. After clamping, I was a bit concerned that the epoxy would get trapped in the middle and leave me with “domed” tables. But they ended up pretty good. They are very stiff, with the steel on both sides...
So after talking to the owner of the salvage store for a little while he let me go down and pick the basement where all of the items from his estate buy outs go before they put them on the sales floor. I was floored with the amount of stuff that he had down there. Picture a room the size of a football field filled with boxes, trunks, shelves and crates FILLED with amazing stuff. I picked for about 2 hours and found everything we like from vintage, rare Stanley #18 Sweetheart plane, a Stanley ...
I finished the metal base cabinet today. The original color is not available so I just painted it silver. The jointer doesn’t have to look like the original. It just needs to work. The tables took about 2 hours to clean. I applied the toilet cleaner several times to eat away the rust. Then I used a palm sander with 180, 220, & 320 grits. The out-feed table has more pitting than the in-feed. The pitting does not show up in the photo. The tables just need to be flat and som...
I recently purchased an 8” jointer on Craigslist. I wanted more capacity than my 6” jointer. It only cost $200 but needs some work. Motor runs smooth but it has a lot of rust. The owner stored it outside for some time. At least he covered it with a tarp. I started with the base. Removed the bottom, black section, cleaned it, primed and painted. Then made a mobile base. Used a Rockler mobile base and purchased some 1 1/2” square steel tubing. Drilled the need...
Now that the carcass for the tables are just about complete, I set out to build the doors. First, I re-saw some cherry to 1/32” for the layers of the panel. I make a form and then using bendable plywood and the veneer, they go into the vacuum bag to make the curved doors. Then a skin of quilted cherry veneer goes on the front and back of the doors. This was a lot of fun, and I hope I don’t bore you by showing the whole process. As always, I welcome your questions and comments! ...
Got a little bit done this weekend. It’s getting late, so I’ll make it quick. Each table started as 3 layers of 1/2” (12mm) baltic birch, laminated with epoxy in my vacuum frame press. I laminate them face down so that the top face would be flattest.Once I pulled them from the press, I noticed that there were some thickness variations in the plywood that left the backside less than flat. So, I put them on the CNC and machined about 1/32” off the back side to ...
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