Now that I know the thickness of the doors, I can start working on the internal structure of the piece. I have to account for being able to put the lower shelf and divider for the drawer being put into the piece after glue up, so I have to do some unconventional things to get it to work. After I get those made, I taper the legs and do the initial glue up. Then I modify my bending jig to make the cut to separate the curved front into two doors. As always, I welcome your questions and commen...
I recently purchesed a few pieces ofold arn. A walker turner lathe, powermatic pm 50 6 inch jointer, and a belsaw 12.5” planer, $600. Here are a few pictures of the lathe and jointer after cleaning up a little. I haven’t started on the belsaw planer yet will update on that one later.
Here is a video I just finished on Center Keyed Box Joints. One of the harder things about box joints is getting an equal sized key on both the top and the bottom. Here I show how to get equal sized keys regardless of the height of your board or the width of your dado stack. It is a really cool way to do the joints and the result is as decorative as it is functional. If you like this video and want to get updates on my future projects please subscribe to my Youtube Channel. You can also see 1...
Hi, I’m a Swedish part time cabinetmaker. This is the first time I can present a “proper” documentation of a project. Enjoy :) https://youtu.be/-RKHqrMsfjY
I call any taper that cannot be accurately cut on the table saw a micro taper. Usually anything under 1 degree. The taper I needed to cut was 0.2 degrees, so the only tool for the job was the jointer. The process was pretty simple. I needed to taper 1/16” over an 18-inch length. I made a 1/16” spacer and raised my jointer to a 1/16” cut. I placed one end of the panel on the spacer and ran the panel through the jointer. As the front edge of the panel hits the knives, t...
One the table surfaces were attached, the next step was of course, mounting the tables. The outfeed table is mounted with threaded studs. On the original plan, the studs were just threaded into the wood.To make this a bit stronger, I used a method I saw on the West System website for bonding fasteners into wood.I started with some 5/16” threaded rod, and cut it into the lengths I needed. I attached the crossmembers that the table would mount to to the bottom of the table with double ...
The restoration is completed. I am still waiting for the new jointer knives to arrive but everything else is completed.Cost for restoration was $130 (belt, paint, knives, dust chute, steel for mobile base). Jointer was only $200; so for $330 I have a 8” jointer that’s as good as new. I added a longer electrical cord. The original cord was too short.
I maneuvered the jointer from the saw horses to the stand. This turned out easier than I thought; without any help. Still need to drill some holes to attach a dust chute I purchased. Next will be to install the new jointer knives. Still waiting for those to be delivered by mail. Then I’ll attach the fence and all it’s components and it will be done. I’ll put my 6” jointer up for sale to help make more room in the garage. This Delta jointer is 77” long.
This weekend I finished cleaning underside of the jointer. Then I removed the old knives and cleaned up the cutter head.There is some pitting on the cutter head but that won’t affect performance.I ordered new knives from Infiinity Tools; they should arrive in 5-7 days. The fence and all it’s components are ready for re-assembly.
Trying to find out about a Hall and Brown no.1 12 inch jointer. Needing to know the size of blades it takes width, thickness. Anyone with any info at all about this jointer please let me know. I have a guy that is wanting to trade me this jointer for a New Britian chain mortiser made in 1901. Any info at all will be appreciated. Thanks in advance .
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