This series of posts will show how I made four condiment totes for a local restaurant. I’m going to show most steps from rough wood to finished product. Most of you will find this basic, but hopefully I can help some beginners see how things are put together. The restaurant wanted holders for ketchup, mustard, relish and vinegar that the waitresses or waiters could take to the table with them. (In Canada, some of us like white vinegar on our fries. On my trips to the U. S., I hav...
As written in my first post, I’m still at the beginning of my foray into woodworking as most of my wood projects so far are home renovations and grunt work! Throughout my home renovations, I have been keeping my eye open for equipment so that I can slowly build it up and have it ready for when I can really get into woodworking within the next two years or so (at least that is the plan). Most of my equipment is used (See my workshop for details). I figure that buying something used he...
After commenting and following a post by MichaelJ, I decided that a picture or two is worth a thousand words. So, here’s how I do it. (I had also posted in the past another way, but I like this method better)First, remove the blade guard on your planer. Set the fence to the maximum width.Face joint the board as you normally would, until the jointable surface is flat.You should now have the flat, jointed surface and the “rabbet” from the overhang.This is the spacer board, whi...
So unfortunately I had not taken many pictures during the process of hand planing the curved door as well as cutting the dovetails for the carcass. I wanted the door to be thin, very thin, which ultimately led to many, many problems. I ended up with a final thickness of a bout 1/4 inch. While I was milling the door I did not have the wood move on me much at all, the Avodire I ended up getting was so incredibly stable I could do almost anything to it and it would not warp. The one thing ...
Maybe “LOVE” is a strong word. But I’m really excited about the final version of the show, and I think most people will feel the same way. Forget about everything we experimented with before. This is all new. It’s been over a year in development, and And I’d like to think it is a pretty unique format! Here’s how it works… The show is designed to have the feel of a single camera “reality” type show. It is meant to be a glimpse into our workshop as if you were just stopping in...
My father had acquired this old, apparently inoperable, Sprunger jointer when I was much younger. Over the years, I watched it continue to accumulate dust as it sat in the corner, never repaired to be used. My dad kind of got away from any woodworking since that time, but I’ve developed a stronger interest. I have made efforts to “economically” outfit a respectable shop, and in that vain, was able to negotiate this salvageable piece of equipment for my own use. It is...
I just finished this Jointer today and ready to make new and more challenging projects. here are the pictures and a video. the chasis, shown here with the cutterhead installed and fitted into the customized pillow block that i ordered from a machinist. the motor now installed. with new belt. the cutting depth adjustment mechanism. infeed and outfeed tables. the gap between tables is just enough for the blade adjustment guide. tables are now installed and lined with 1.5...
While I am waiting for the finish to cure on my tray project, I started my next adventure. I am building a sofa table to match, approximately, the end tables that I made last year (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/22185). I started by sketching out a design on paper with some basic measurements. Usually I get a little more detailed and do a scale drawing (I use MS powerpoint). Since I plan to match the end tables, I need a little less design detail and paper will do. Begin wit...
The last installment of this series was originally titled Milling the stiles and rails and described prepping the blanks for the panels. Sigh. Sorry about that. I’ve fixed that entry title. This door would be for the passage between my foyer and formal living room, so I thought the best side should face the foyer. I inspected each blank for the stiles and rails and picked out the best side as the “foyer” side, marking each part with chalk to indicated what part it was...
It has been a long time since my last blog post. Sorry. I was more intent on getting the door done than writing about it. At this point the stile and rail blanks are complete, so I turned to the panels. One option was to make each panel the full thickness of the door – 1 3/4 inches – and raise the panel on each side. A second option is to make panels half the thickness of the door – 7/8 inches – raise the panel on 1 side, and use 2 panels back-to-back for each...
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