This cabinet is made from leftover red oak, Luan, birch plywood and plexiglass that I had in my shop. It is approximately 17”T x 7 1/2”W x 6” deep. I would have liked to make it a little taller to handle a couple more shelves and slightly deeper to have been able to recess the back panel. The Box I first sent the oak through the joiner to ensure I had 1 flat square edge. I then cut the board to the proper widths on my table saw then to final lengths on the Miter...
For the waterfall leg, I’m using Full Blind Multiple Splined joinery as described by Tage Frid. I discovered this method by asking a question in a forum post here on LJ. Thanks to Woodendeavor and Randy-ATX for directing me this way. I purchased three of his books. This description is found on pp. 102ff of Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, Book 1: Joinery The joint looks like this: The two biggest keys will be to cut the slab correctly and building the jig so the miters line up...
In conjunction with a bunch of other guys on another forum, we are putting together a group build of a tube guitar amp. My contribution will be a raw, unfinished, rough sanded cabinet for the amp. We finally got the dimensions nailed down to where I could make a prototype. The project gave me a chance to use my new TS box joint jig (Shop Notes version). I have a bunch of 16’ rough cut pine 1×12’s. So I lopped off 2 lengths long enough to do 1 long side and 1 short side...
As a reminder, I am making an Art and Craft style clock based on one at The Grove Park Inn for my eldest daughter’s upcoming wedding. See post #2 for the goal. I’ve decided to make the back frame and panel assembly first. A little sharpening is order before I get started. Next I planed the stiles flat and square with my Lie-Nielsen #7. Then I just couldn’t handle the suspense anymore and had to lay out the panels and rails to see how it was going to look. This allowed ...
The hard maple table displayed in my projects needs chairs. We have a small house and a small dining room. The chairs must slide mostly under the table out of the way. Another LJ displayed his low back chair and the idea was born! I bought Charles Brocks plans and video. I chose hard maple to match the table. Sure it’s hard. But once you’re grinding with carbide tools and sanding to sculpt it doesn’t matter much. I’m keeping track of my hours because I...
Ok, spent a bit of time getting the case put together. Things just seem to roost on my benchtop. Setting the panels upside down on an almost flat benchtop. Clamp an end panel to the front/back panel. The longer panels have a series of counter-bored screw holes, about seven per corner. Clamp a corner together, add a few screws, move the clamp a bit to uncover the one or two that are hiding under them. Work my way around, by adding the other end panel, rotate the three piece set aro...
The 8th video in a series about building a Allan Little designed work table with a multifunctional top. In this video, I laminate and drill the holes in the top. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BErFepHO9C4&list=UUd5zJvEvBsWALUYaChpNX8Q&feature=share
Recently Big Al, i.e. “Boxguy” posted a jig he had built for cutting accurate mitre joints. I built one this afternoon, and thought I would share my attempt at making the same jig. Total cost for the jig was around $17.00 – - the all in one clamp. The time was 2 1/2 hours. MDF remnants, left over material from other projects, and junk drawer parts finished it to this point. Still have to finish up the stop system, but was anxious to use it today, so will add the stop tom...
and panel raisin’ Got the Pine panel out of the clamps. Hand planed to as flat as I could get in. Time to raise a panel. Same way as the side panels. Mark out a “stop line” about 1” in from the edge. Take a #4 sized handplane, set it a bit deep. Go at a diagonal to the grain. Plane until you reach the stop line, check the remainder of the edge for straightness. As you get close to the finish line, back off the depth of cut. I do the end grain ...
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