I make a wall shelf for my sons room out of pieces from an old bunk bed. Fun project and satisfying to re use material. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=byAL3nPUvFQ&list=UUoiFVDvzJX8tXXF5GsUPc_Q&feature=share
The last blog was about joining the sides on the top and now this one is about joining them from the bottom. This part is going to be a little more tricky. This is my first indication that I’m actually building the beginning of what will be a giant puzzle when it comes to glue up time......If you’ve read the blogs before this one, you’ll remember that I made a triple mortise and a double mortise on each of the legs. If you don’t remember or didn’t see the blog, t...
Now that the sides are sized and cut to length, it is time for cutting feet and marking up to get ready for dados, rabbits and dovetails (dados, rabbits and dovetails, oh my! Sorry Dorthy.). The feet of the cupboard are cut into the sides and two lower front stiles. Notice that the “front” foot is slightly narrower than the “rear” foot. This 3/4” difference will be made up by the stile after it is attached. I drew the shape I wanted on some scrap 1/8”...
I kind of stumbled on this method by accident.I haven’t tested it on hardwood but your big box soft wood lumber works perfectly.. Tools needed. Stanley No. 95 or equivalent (veritas or LN)Block plane or smoothing plane set for thin shavings. I usually take 8-12 passes with the 95 each direction,This is usually enough to get rid of that rounded edge you getWith big box store construction grade lumber. But wait! I just changed directions against the grain!Doesn’t matter...
This countertop around oven range will be made of two separate pieces which connect through a “bridge” with one seam behind the range. The right part is about 13” x 24”, the left—37” x 24”. The bridge is of two parts, each is 40” x 3” and to be glued to either left or right side to allow one seam connection. Cut the 1-13/16” walnut boards into segments: The left side glue-up: Two boards of the right side glue-up: ...
No I’m not marketing. I’m just amazed at how it’s not the fancy pieces or most expensive pieces that tend to get the most use. I think by far many expensive and or “fancy” if I may, pieces of furniture or any item for that matter does not see as much use as more common items. (Duh you say) :) I am convinced that there is not much peace of mind to be found in in objects that are almost “roped off” in our homes, offices, or studies, workshops even i...
Well, after milling the stock and making a new tenoning jig for the table saw I was ready to cut the tenons on the aprons of the table. The jig was worth the effort and I was able to do a first dry fit of most the table parts. There’s more info in this post on my blog along with pictures of the new jig and the process. Take a look and thanks for reading!
I just started the two end tables to go with the entertainment center in my last project posting, working on the larger of the two at 24” X 21”, and determining the top’s appearance.All of my boards are about 7” wide, with one board at 9 1/2” & is flat sawn. I would like to make a one board top, not possible obviously, so I am stretching two 9 1/2” side by side to 21” wide:In so doing, I decided to add one additional board(s) in the middle of thes...
Willie asked yesterday if I could explain how I make dovetails on curved drawers. I may have just made it more confusing than it needs to be. I was able to find a few photos of making a drawer for a desk I built. I hope this helps. Lee
Since my last entry I have spent one and a bit days working on the bench.This has involved sizing the verticals, cutting the tenons on the ends of the verticals and cutting the mortice for the stub tenon in the stretchers. SizingSizing the verticals was done on the jointer, table saw and thicknesser. The jointer was used to get two side straight and at right ankles to each other. The dimension for the width of the vertical (that is from the side, not the end) required that it be about si...
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