Well, after much cussing and fighting, got all the rails fitted to their mortises. This being the last on this side of the door. Wound up making it an open ended affair. The lock rail took the longest, and I think I traced it’s ancestry back about ten generations… Ok, when I go to assemble the door for the final time, I will install a few wedges into each tenon, then pin the joint with a couple of dowel pins. Managed to measure for the center stile, and get the measu...
Yesterday I picked up a 1 – 1/4” forester bit and a 3/8” x 10” long brad point bit at Woodcraft. The forstner bit is for drilling the hole through the chop and leg for the leg vise. The bit is too short to make it all of the way through the leg so I also need to get a forstner bit extension. The 3/8” bit is for the pins that hang the Criss-Cross on the chop and leg. The chop is 9” wide so this was barely able to make it through. I didn’t want to hassl...
It’s been a while since my last woodworking project, so I’m easing back into the groove with a new file cabinet. I have a piece of junk tin cabinet in my home office that squeaks every time I open and close it. I did some serving trays in Cherry, and really liked working with it, so my new file cabinet will be Cherry. I found a photo online and liked the style so I sketched it up in Sketchup and AutoCAD. The legs are 1 3/4” x 1 3/4” and the rest of the frame is 1&...
Small workbench based on shipbuilt's Short Block V8 (Workbench Challange) #1: Concept and leg assembly
ConceptI have been needing a proper workbench for a while. The top of my table saw and fold up extension have been the only spot to use. I would love to have a large proper workbench but my shop is just too small for a full size bench. I have been looking at benches in Lumberjocks and marking some for reference. shipwright had come up with some excellent ideas. His concept for the Short Block V8 is a low cost way for a beginner to get a strong, stable small workbench using tools that many b...
Today was a light day for me as I’m running out of things I can do until I get more wood, so today I cut out the side profile of the chop. I had this piece of thin ply laying around so I ripped it down to size and put my alignment marks on it, then drew the shoulder using a french curve template. Using the centerline I was able to do both sides. I clamped it on edge and sanded the template profile smooth then traced both sides on the chop. I cut a bunch ...
The dovetails and mortise and tenons on the carcase are done. My dovetails are getting better. Practice does make a difference. Tails done time for pins Its square. Cutting the mortises. The tape makes the knife marks easier to see, A little touchup on one end and we can cut and fit the panels front and rear.
I realize I am a picky little sucker but am I over the line on this or am I wrong in the way I see this?From the http://www.garymkatz.com/trimtechniques/hiddenpivotbookcaseinstall.htm Edgebanding plywood shelvingI’ve done a lot of edgebanding and always hated the hair-line crack that develops between the plywood and the solid stock. That gap is caused by the inner plywood endgrain_ swelling from the glue, which puts a little belly in the edge and forces the banding away from top and bottom...
I wonder how I will build a database like this photo. Circle is in the feet and I have no ideia.Gostava to know your opinion and help! Thank you friends!
Well, technically it’s not a cigar-box guitar because the (new) box was made for 3 small sample bottles of booze, Port to be precise. The name Amália has everything to do with a Portuguese Fado-guitar being the inspiration for this build. More detailed pictures on Triple Chaos
I did a little bit this weekend. I made the drawers for the right side. I will put false fronts on them later. I will post more next week.
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