LumberJocks

Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'joining'

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View Karson's profile

Kitchen Remodel #8: My first try at Corian

10-31-2008 10:37 PM by Karson | 24 comments »

Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets. I didn’t take any pictures of the actual gluing because I wasn’t sure of the amount of time I’d have as i was doing that process. Now that I have a better feel for the amount of time it takes, I’ll take some assembly pictures for the rest of the counter top. I started with the corner cabinet that is 24” X 24” and is where we currently have a microwave and toaster. New cabi...

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View Mauricio's profile

Workbench Build - Splayed leg French Bench #8: Splayed Back Legs and Stretcher

07-10-2012 06:40 PM by Mauricio | 44 comments »

Hello Friends, I’m long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I’ve made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I’m afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it’s just frustrating. You’ll see what I mean at the end. As usual, I’ll let the pictures do most of the explaining: Cut the shoulders on the angled te...

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View pashley's profile

Planers can't flatten boards....really?

04-10-2008 06:18 PM by pashley | 13 comments »

The common wisdom to flatten raw stock, is to first plane a face flat on a jointer. To get to opposite face paralleled and flat, you run that newly flattened side face down in a planer to your desired thickness. Sounds familiar, I’m sure. Hard to do that with 8” stock when you have a 6” jointer though. The common wisdom also states that if you just try to run that raw stock through a planer, flipping it each time until you get it flat on both sides, you’ll end up wi...

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View Angela's profile

TV Stand #1: Progess is very slow...cutting the new plywood, the angles and the splines

08-09-2011 12:10 AM by Angela | 1 comment »

This is actually the second in the series but I didn’t understand how the blog system works. The first in the series is a separate blog entitled TV stand. I will eventually put this on my website in more detail but here’s a shorter version of some of the problems and success of making my TV stand. I wish I had some plans or I had more knowledge about building furniture. Because I don’t the project just isn’t moving along very fast. What started me on this project was ...

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View Huckleberry's profile

Desk Build #7: Episode 13- More Drawer Slide Installations

09-26-2010 05:29 AM by Huckleberry | 3 comments »

With so many types of slides out there, there are different ways in which to install them. So here is another type of slide installation. I hope this is informative for everyone.

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View RonPeters's profile

Making a Violin #3: Sides, or 'Ribs' ~ Bending & Gluing

11-12-2010 01:24 AM by RonPeters | 7 comments »

Ok, I’m back… Had a bit of an issue with the bending iron. It seems it is rather delicate and putting it on high (10) is a no no. It’s a Watlow ‘Firerod’ embedded in the aluminum tower. The current flow at 10 apparently burns out the element? It requires about an hour to get to bending temperature – and had I read the sheet that it came with… It was repaired free of charge and henceforth I will be careful to mind the dial! Nothing past 5 from no...

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View kbiniowa's profile

Construction Steps for Kevin Rodel Arts and Craft Chairs #1: Crest Rail Construction

05-03-2013 04:16 AM by kbiniowa | 2 comments »

Quartersawn oak blanks are cut to 14” long and 1 5/8” thick. The upper crest rails are 3” wide and the lower rails are 2 ½” wide. I chose to construct the chair with floating tenons so that I could mill and cut all of the rails to the exact same length. A bench-top mortising machine is used to make the mortises for the upper and lower crest rails. The 3/8” chisel is set exactly parallel to the machine’s fence, then an auxiliary fence is installed and shimmed to the proper angle required. Sto...

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View KnotWright's profile

Solid Wood Door glue-ups / Tips and Techniques

02-11-2010 03:15 AM by KnotWright | 6 comments »

One of the best things about Lumberjocks is that an individual can be exposed to so many different ways to do the same task. While you are working in your shop, you aren’t really exposed to too many different ways, normally the way you were taught, or how you figured it out, tends to be the way we always end up doing things. This way might not be the most efficient or productive, but it does get the job done. My question for everyone is how do you do the following task: I”...

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View DouginVa's profile

Baltic birch plywood tearout #1: In a dovetail jig

03-12-2012 11:51 PM by DouginVa | 5 comments »

Not too long ago I bought a sheet of baltic birch plywood for a armoir project for my daughter (pics to be posted at a later time). I was going to use the plywood for the drawer parts because it was being hailed as splinter free when using it in a dovetail jig. NOT I tried using backer boards in the front and back and still got tearout. If the ends didn’t tear out then the last layer of the ply de-laminated. This made fitting them and glue ups a pain in the ass. I know I coul...

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View Boxguy's profile

Boxland: Work Stations and Boxing Tips #8: Cutting the Corner 45 Degree Angles

03-11-2013 04:58 AM by Boxguy | 18 comments »

A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES. Assumption: I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side...

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