Quartersawn oak blanks are cut to 14” long and 1 5/8” thick. The upper crest rails are 3” wide and the lower rails are 2 ½” wide. I chose to construct the chair with floating tenons so that I could mill and cut all of the rails to the exact same length. A bench-top mortising machine is used to make the mortises for the upper and lower crest rails. The 3/8” chisel is set exactly parallel to the machine’s fence, then an auxiliary fence is installed and shimmed to the proper angle required. Sto...
Found out the trex clamps I talked about in my last version (http://lumberjocks.com/TZH/blog/24588) weren’t strong enough to withstand the pressure exerted by the bolt going through, plus didn’t hold the sled rigidly enough (too much diagonal movement). So, back to the drawing board. Figured a clamp should function like a clamp no matter what the design is, so I used 2×4’s for the stationary clamp (first photo) and 2×2’s (oak – second photo) for the mov...
Hello Friends, I’m long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I’ve made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I’m afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it’s just frustrating. You’ll see what I mean at the end. As usual, I’ll let the pictures do most of the explaining: Cut the shoulders on the angled te...
This is actually the second in the series but I didn’t understand how the blog system works. The first in the series is a separate blog entitled TV stand. I will eventually put this on my website in more detail but here’s a shorter version of some of the problems and success of making my TV stand. I wish I had some plans or I had more knowledge about building furniture. Because I don’t the project just isn’t moving along very fast. What started me on this project was ...
Here is how I made my Intersected cutting board posted here. There seems to be a lot of interest in this board so here is a blog on how I made it. First of all here’s what I planned on making. It’s the top one. After I got both the circles intersected I liked how it looked with the rounded corners so I just added in the “wedge shapes”at the top and bottom and called it done. I think that it makes it very distinctive also. As one person guessed I ...
Ok, I’m back… Had a bit of an issue with the bending iron. It seems it is rather delicate and putting it on high (10) is a no no. It’s a Watlow ‘Firerod’ embedded in the aluminum tower. The current flow at 10 apparently burns out the element? It requires about an hour to get to bending temperature – and had I read the sheet that it came with… It was repaired free of charge and henceforth I will be careful to mind the dial! Nothing past 5 from no...
One of the best things about Lumberjocks is that an individual can be exposed to so many different ways to do the same task. While you are working in your shop, you aren’t really exposed to too many different ways, normally the way you were taught, or how you figured it out, tends to be the way we always end up doing things. This way might not be the most efficient or productive, but it does get the job done. My question for everyone is how do you do the following task: I”...
The common wisdom to flatten raw stock, is to first plane a face flat on a jointer. To get to opposite face paralleled and flat, you run that newly flattened side face down in a planer to your desired thickness. Sounds familiar, I’m sure. Hard to do that with 8” stock when you have a 6” jointer though. The common wisdom also states that if you just try to run that raw stock through a planer, flipping it each time until you get it flat on both sides, you’ll end up wi...
Not too long ago I bought a sheet of baltic birch plywood for a armoir project for my daughter (pics to be posted at a later time). I was going to use the plywood for the drawer parts because it was being hailed as splinter free when using it in a dovetail jig. NOT I tried using backer boards in the front and back and still got tearout. If the ends didn’t tear out then the last layer of the ply de-laminated. This made fitting them and glue ups a pain in the ass. I know I coul...
It could be said that miter joints are definitely one of the most common joints in woodworking or carpentry. This is a joint that we are taught early on in our apprenticeships because we will be cutting miters throughout our entire career. As an apprentice it sounds simple enough to just cut a left 45 and a right 45 and glue then together to form a 90. If it were so simple then why are there open miter joints? Let’s take a look at how we can make perfect miter joints. View the comple...
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