Ok, I’m back… Had a bit of an issue with the bending iron. It seems it is rather delicate and putting it on high (10) is a no no. It’s a Watlow ‘Firerod’ embedded in the aluminum tower. The current flow at 10 apparently burns out the element? It requires about an hour to get to bending temperature – and had I read the sheet that it came with… It was repaired free of charge and henceforth I will be careful to mind the dial! Nothing past 5 from no...
After a month of development based on the feedback I got here, I finally managed to release Carpenter Pro, this time, it calculates how many plywood sheets are needed to finish your project and get detailed cutlist diagram for each stock sheet needed. It allows you to specify the dimensions & grain direction for your stock sheets material, specify the dimensions and the required grain direction for each part you need to cut for your project, and set the kerf amount, then watch this app ge...
With so many types of slides out there, there are different ways in which to install them. So here is another type of slide installation. I hope this is informative for everyone.
Found out the trex clamps I talked about in my last version (http://lumberjocks.com/TZH/blog/24588) weren’t strong enough to withstand the pressure exerted by the bolt going through, plus didn’t hold the sled rigidly enough (too much diagonal movement). So, back to the drawing board. Figured a clamp should function like a clamp no matter what the design is, so I used 2×4’s for the stationary clamp (first photo) and 2×2’s (oak – second photo) for the mov...
Here is how I made my Intersected cutting board posted here. There seems to be a lot of interest in this board so here is a blog on how I made it. First of all here’s what I planned on making. It’s the top one. After I got both the circles intersected I liked how it looked with the rounded corners so I just added in the “wedge shapes”at the top and bottom and called it done. I think that it makes it very distinctive also. As one person guessed I ...
Not too long ago I bought a sheet of baltic birch plywood for a armoir project for my daughter (pics to be posted at a later time). I was going to use the plywood for the drawer parts because it was being hailed as splinter free when using it in a dovetail jig. NOT I tried using backer boards in the front and back and still got tearout. If the ends didn’t tear out then the last layer of the ply de-laminated. This made fitting them and glue ups a pain in the ass. I know I coul...
This is actually the second in the series but I didn’t understand how the blog system works. The first in the series is a separate blog entitled TV stand. I will eventually put this on my website in more detail but here’s a shorter version of some of the problems and success of making my TV stand. I wish I had some plans or I had more knowledge about building furniture. Because I don’t the project just isn’t moving along very fast. What started me on this project was ...
It could be said that miter joints are definitely one of the most common joints in woodworking or carpentry. This is a joint that we are taught early on in our apprenticeships because we will be cutting miters throughout our entire career. As an apprentice it sounds simple enough to just cut a left 45 and a right 45 and glue then together to form a 90. If it were so simple then why are there open miter joints? Let’s take a look at how we can make perfect miter joints. View the comple...
Hello Friends, I’m long overdue for an update so there are a lot of pictures. I’ve made quite a bit of progress but the ending is not so happy I’m afraid, after reassembling the parts last night I discovered an error I will have to fix. The great thing about woodworking is that almost anything is fixable, it’s just frustrating. You’ll see what I mean at the end. As usual, I’ll let the pictures do most of the explaining: Cut the shoulders on the angled te...
The common wisdom to flatten raw stock, is to first plane a face flat on a jointer. To get to opposite face paralleled and flat, you run that newly flattened side face down in a planer to your desired thickness. Sounds familiar, I’m sure. Hard to do that with 8” stock when you have a 6” jointer though. The common wisdom also states that if you just try to run that raw stock through a planer, flipping it each time until you get it flat on both sides, you’ll end up wi...
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