Intro: Hello to all and welcome to the first installment of Intarsia Basics. Before we can start cutting we need to select the wood we want to use and get our pattern ready. Wood Choices: I prefer to start with stock that is one inch thick because that gives you a lot of depth that you can work with. It will require a little more sanding on some areas but it will help to give your piece a 3D look. It is your choice if you prefer to stain your wood to achieve the colors or use exot...
Updated 1/15/12 Regarding wood movement:Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.This is what works for me. I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and l...
Updated 1/16/12 This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box. I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you. The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box. Chapter 10 will discuss this style. The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop stra...
I recently finished working on a cutting algorithm app for the iPad and iPhone called Smart Cutter, and wanted to share the app with every one hoping get some feedback from carpenters and wood workers. Smart Cutter finds the maximum number of small pieces cut from a larger sheet of paper with minimum scrap. It employs a state of the art algorithm to generate the maximum number of small pieces cut from a larger sheet of paper, wood, cloth or any other material, with minimum waste. Whether y...
Threaded insert jig – HOW TO MAKEHow to get the dam thing straight in!Ok, not a big problem, but a problem! Here are the challange. Idea! A jig so I can control the angel is 90 degree.Solution a pice of scrap wood, some thread in a ‘nice’ size, and ofcourse the same thread as the inserts inside.Draw up a hole that fits, the hight of the threathet insert and some extra for a nut. Some cutting at the tablesaw. Some more cutting, this could be done with a chiselR...
Forgive me, I don’t hang out here all that often. I finally had the opportunity to visit a master woodworker who still uses traditional methods and tools. So I thought I share a few snapshots with y’all. In fact traditional Chinese woodworking has been quite illusive. A few times a almost had the opportunity to visit a traditional shop it turned out that the woodworker retired and gave all his tools away. Finally, three weeks ago and with the help of good friends we were able t...
This project had more hickups than an old drunk in the park but thanks to three of my buddies who gave some excellent advice I was able to straighten (I do mean straighten) things out. Our Kitchen table is an 8 seater. Reaching items in the middle was a bit of a nuisance unless you stood up. A lazy Susan was the answer, but what size?.I drew the whole thing on sketchup but that did not give a satisfactory idea of proportion. I then cut two 8mm (5/16”) plywood templates, a 500mm & 60...
Well, I was asked to put together a blog on how I made my segmentd ring. Since I had to make a new one for myself, (first one too small) I thought I would go ahead and do a step by step picture tutorial. My first time ever doing something like this , so hope it comes out OK. Here goes; Wood Selection The first step in making the ring is deciding what woods to use. As we all know, the selection is quite large. One of the most important things is color, but the most important is hardne...
Found out the trex clamps I talked about in my last version (http://lumberjocks.com/TZH/blog/24588) weren’t strong enough to withstand the pressure exerted by the bolt going through, plus didn’t hold the sled rigidly enough (too much diagonal movement). So, back to the drawing board. Figured a clamp should function like a clamp no matter what the design is, so I used 2×4’s for the stationary clamp (first photo) and 2×2’s (oak – second photo) for the mov...
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