Intro: Hello to all and welcome to the first installment of Intarsia Basics. Before we can start cutting we need to select the wood we want to use and get our pattern ready. Wood Choices: I prefer to start with stock that is one inch thick because that gives you a lot of depth that you can work with. It will require a little more sanding on some areas but it will help to give your piece a 3D look. It is your choice if you prefer to stain your wood to achieve the colors or use exot...
Threaded insert jig – HOW TO MAKEHow to get the dam thing straight in!Ok, not a big problem, but a problem! Here are the challange. Idea! A jig so I can control the angel is 90 degree.Solution a pice of scrap wood, some thread in a ‘nice’ size, and ofcourse the same thread as the inserts inside.Draw up a hole that fits, the hight of the threathet insert and some extra for a nut. Some cutting at the tablesaw. Some more cutting, this could be done with a chiselR...
Updated 1/15/12 Regarding wood movement:Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.This is what works for me. I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and l...
Updated 1/16/12 This is where you need to decide how you want to open your box. I mentioned at the outset about some of the different boxes I have made and how they hinge differently from one another. All are good, but you may have a preference in style or it may be your ability that decides for you. The pin hinge is what we will mainly be focusing on and was used on this box. Chapter 10 will discuss this style. The Deco box uses a standard brass butt hinge with a stop stra...
I recently finished working on a cutting algorithm app for the iPad and iPhone called Smart Cutter, and wanted to share the app with every one hoping get some feedback from carpenters and wood workers. Smart Cutter finds the maximum number of small pieces cut from a larger sheet of paper with minimum scrap. It employs a state of the art algorithm to generate the maximum number of small pieces cut from a larger sheet of paper, wood, cloth or any other material, with minimum waste. Whether y...
I’ve made a lot of progress in the last few weeks. First I marked up the lumber, orienting grain and appearance for the various parts… Then I proceeded to cut everything to rough size. Laying out the curved pieces for the pedestal and cutting them to size… I then moved on to the feet… And starting fitting the pedestal and feet together… Everything went pretty well, and the experience of making the pine mo...
Make a Dewalt 733 planer dust hood for less then 5 bucks This is my first blog so I hope I get it right. I bought a used 733 a few months ago that did not come with a dust collection hood. After getting it home I had to try it out, ran a pine board through it and blew chips and dust 5 foot . Well being frugal as I am, no make that cheap I decided to try and make something to get me by until I could find a factory hood. This is what I came up with, I have been using it for a few month...
The common wisdom to flatten raw stock, is to first plane a face flat on a jointer. To get to opposite face paralleled and flat, you run that newly flattened side face down in a planer to your desired thickness. Sounds familiar, I’m sure. Hard to do that with 8” stock when you have a 6” jointer though. The common wisdom also states that if you just try to run that raw stock through a planer, flipping it each time until you get it flat on both sides, you’ll end up wi...
Found out the trex clamps I talked about in my last version (http://lumberjocks.com/TZH/blog/24588) weren’t strong enough to withstand the pressure exerted by the bolt going through, plus didn’t hold the sled rigidly enough (too much diagonal movement). So, back to the drawing board. Figured a clamp should function like a clamp no matter what the design is, so I used 2×4’s for the stationary clamp (first photo) and 2×2’s (oak – second photo) for the mov...
- My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond - 1832 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Toy costruction - 131 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 115 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 98 parts
- Woodworking on a Half-Shoestring - 91 parts
- Shop stuff - 90 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Life as an Amateur Woodworker - 82 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1857 entries
- dbhost - 455 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 398 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- mafe - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- Dave Rutan - 277 entries
- robscastle - 267 entries
- shipwright - 259 entries
- William - 258 entries
- A Slice of Wood Workshop - 241 entries
- bandit571 - 237 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- stefang - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 207 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries