We recently purchased a new washer, & dryer, & we didn’t want to spend $400 for the factory pedestals, so I’m making my own. They should cost us about $75 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~This is the factory made pedestal~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~The front load machines are kind of low without a pedestal. It makes it kind of tough on the back muscles.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~...
Part 3updated 1/15/12 Regarding size:Size and proportions are important…to a point. We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4’’ x 6 3/4’’ x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.) I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in rela...
Updated 1/16/12 I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sidesThe difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open. Here is how its done: Use the same pa...
Updated 1/15/12 We now have our box assembled and glued up. Depending on the temperature, let it dry for a couple of hours, or overnight to be safe.Take the tape off and clean up any dried glue. This is a good time to smooth up the bottom to get rid of any rocking.You can double stick sandpaper onto a very flat and firm surface and slide the bottom across that. The problem with this approach is that sheet sandpaper is way too small. You can stick down several sheets and if you go very s...
Updated 1/15/12 At this point we have a box body with corner splines.Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE! For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we d...
Updated 1/15/12 Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.I typically make the medallion about 1” to 1.5” smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion. We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do ...
Hey everyone, It was suggested that I start a discussion on how to find and harvest burls. Please give your input also. I don’t deal with straight grain that often. I cut and sell burls for a living so here is what I know. It is illegal to harvest a burl without permission. of course if it is on your own property you can give yourself permission. What I do is put an ad on Craig’s list saying I want your burls. Most people don’t know what burls are. So you don’t get that many calls....
I never want to hear anyone complain about their shop… anything has to be better than a tiny living room in a 400sqft apartment. This is my first project with hand tools. I worked as a cabinetmaker for 6 years, and then moved to NYC 3 years ago and changed careers. I’ve been wanting to get back into building furniture, and after a few months of reading everything Chris Schwartz has written and pretty much every other hand tool blog on the internet, I feel like I know everything...
Updated 1/15/12 Regarding wood movement:Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.This is what works for me. I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and l...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1263 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 95 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 88 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Just for Fun... - 82 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 73 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1285 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 388 entries
- dbhost - 369 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 311 entries
- Karson - 301 entries
- Martin Sojka - 297 entries
- William - 255 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- mafe - 216 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 187 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- Rustic - 183 entries
- shipwright - 168 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 159 entries
- stefang - 148 entries