Updated 1/16/12 I spent a lot of time developing a way to let the lid swing down into the box, yet still maintaining a fairly tight reveal on all four sidesThe difficulty is the lip itself. It doesnt allow the back of the lid to drop into the box, so thats where we need to cut it away a little deeper at the back. I call these pockets.The other difficulty is in getting the hinge placement spot on or it wont open at all or not far enough to stay open. Here is how its done: Use the same pa...
Updated 1/15/12 At this point we have a box body with corner splines.Our lid is still oversized, so we can stop here and just use it to make a traditional box,one where the lid sets on top.DO NOT CUT THE LID TO SIZE UNTIL YOU ARE SURE OF THE STYLE OF BOX YOU WANT TO MAKE! For some, this may be the best option. They may not have all the required tools or may feel their skills need a little more honing.Or, you could leapfrog over the next few stages and pick up the project again when we d...
A couple of weeks ago I posted a project of a wedding ring box I made for my wife. It actually received quite a few comments about how I made the hinges…which I guess we are calling double action hinges. Since there was quite a few questions on how I made it, I decided that I should probably make a tutorial, considering I learn so much from tutorials on here. The box had hinges that were only about 4 cm, but for this I am doing larger ones so my camera picks up the steps better. ...
Updated 1/15/12 Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.I typically make the medallion about 1” to 1.5” smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion. We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do ...
This is my first blog and I hope it will go over well. This sander was inspired by models on the Internet but mostly by Blake: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/7641 and by Bob: http://lumberjocks.com/Bob3418/blog. I would like to thank them both for their posts. Without them this project would have been very difficult to complete. Concept: My intentions are to make a 20” +/- wide drum sander that will easily switch from thickness to surface sanding. I would like to be able to reduce stoc...
Updated 1/15/12 Regarding wood movement:Depending on the wood you use, where you live, and your own personal experience,y ou may want to allow more clearance.This is what works for me. I really dont allow for any movement at this stage. I know this sounds like trouble waiting to happen, but it works just fine for me. Even if we start off with a snug fit, we will still end up with a small gap around the perimeter. This is due to the final sanding and easing of the edges between lid and l...
Hi folks. After some design changes and fine-tuning the drum sander is finally completed. Here’s a point by point description covering some of the steps I feel important to take on this project. Pictures should help where I’m not so clear. I will post the surface sanding option, some dimensions, and final comments in Part 3. Here it goes….. hope you like it. Main Body: Made with ¾” maple veneer plywood and solid maple for the pillow block base. Assembled first with pocket screws to check t...
After looking through some other blogs here on LJ and watching some Youtube videos I thought that the tumbling block cutting board was something that looked challenging, cool and something I wanted to try. I learned some good ideas from these other blogs and wanted to share some of my experiences having now made three of these, my setbacks and discoveries to better produce these tumbling block patterns. I purchased a Wixey digital angle gauge as it looked like you really needed to be accu...
This is the last of three parts detailing how I made the sander. Part 3 provides details for the surface sander attachment, photos of the final combo sander, specs, dimensions, comments, observations and a cost estimate. I found the sander too heavy to lug around and too high to use on my bench or assembly table. It’s now on a rolling cabinet made with ¾” plywood. The cabinet has two large drawers and storage in the back for the Surface Sanding Table, a place to hang a large push stick on ...
Having thoroughly enjoyed making the Little Bess Ring Box, the smallest project I’ve ever made in boxes, I have decided to go to the other end of the scale. I’ve always hankered after a Drum Sander but could never afford the £500+ price tag. I idly tapped ‘drum sander’ into the search box and found that not only was I not alone in not being able to afford one but that there was a solution. Build you own. There are numerous ideas out there but the soundest seems to be ...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1548 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 95 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1573 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 271 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- shipwright - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 188 entries
- Rustic - 186 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 181 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 174 entries