Today I decided that the lock miter joints just didn’t look good enough, especially since some of each corner will be exposed once I fit the walnut panel for the lid. So I trimmed each at the table saw and am pretty happy with the results. I used a different technique for this cut and it worked well enough to keep everything straight & square, at least as far as my instruments can detect. So I then trimmed the lid panel to fit (“panel” seems an odd name for it—...
The final fitting of the tenon in the mortise. Once I achieve the perfect fit it is time to make the Box joint within the mortise. Note that the mortise pocket is about 1/8th in. deeper than normal as is the tenon, I believe this simple modification goes along way to help strengthen this type of joint. With the aid of a simple jig the box joint is made. Accuracy and close tolerance work is the key to a box joint’s strength, A machinists caliper is probably the easy way to se...
In this video I show how I mortise and tenon the legs and aprons. The first step is to evaluate or critiquing the pieces, I feel each piece on it”s own has positive and negative aspects that need to be addressed. Once evaluated the pieces can be shown for the best possible presentation of the project. If you are just starting out in woodworking it is a good idea to keep tract of your decisions to see how they affected the overall project. Evaluating and critiquing is a valuable ski...
I’m so close! The clamps are holding the oak backer board on … which is holding the mirror in place. The top oak trim cap is just sitting there. The bottom trim cap was a no-show on photo day. It looks suspiciously like the top piece. BUT … I’m almost done! The trim blocks (the four corner pieces that surround the frame) are glued on. I’m going to run the top and bottom edges through my jointer, along with the top and bottom cap pieces … just to ...
After Thanksgivings #s two and three, after two days of painting our bedroom and cleaning up the mess that created, it was finally time to turn my attention to the keyholder. My dad was nice enough to give me his inherited router, which was the piece of equipment that lit a fire under my hobby-searching self. For some reason, the idea of rounding edges or being able to cut canals out of wood made the whole thing a lot more appealing. Here’s my makeshift workshop: That’...
Hi Everyone, I decided to remake my shooting board because my first try left a little to be desired. I wanted more accuracy and I didn’t have the ability to shoot 45° mitres. I started with some reclaimed 3/4” common plywood and a piece of hardboard. I had an extra piece of walnut that I’d cut, so I had all the wood that I needed. I spent some time surfing the net for ideas an found a few good ones. http://www.evenfallstudios.com/woodworks/category/shooting-b...
This project is not technically finished so I will not post as a project..This part of the blog will deal with the cutting of arcs.I basically used one of the patron jigs I developed to cut the end curves for a Baguette Board…this pivots on the circle cutting jig. Cut two lengths of contrasting or complimentary timbers… I of course chose Purple Heart and Silver Ash…Silver Ash and Tasmanian Blackwood would have also been suitable… But if all you have is Walnut and Curl...
I was tempted for a long time to create a tool cabinet like I’ve seen in many books and magazines (Shopnotes’ ‘Heirloom Toolbox’ comes to mind), but wasn’t prepares for such a daunting task immediately since I am a new woodworker. I then decided that I really like my Snap-On knockoff tool cabinet, so I have considered an alternate design to hold a very specific set of tools. So specific in fact, that I plan on french-fitting every tool in every drawer aside fro...
I have been doing some thinking about Grain Matching corners. We all see boxes that the wood has been wraped around to match 3 corners, but the 4th is allways off. I think I have come up with a way to match all 4 sides. I will be making a box when I can get back in the shop.(hurt my shoulder and LOML won’t let me play until next week) Will take step by step pics and post in this series for everyone. Keep an eye open for updates. If anyone else has a process for this, feel free ...
well i guess i shall start at the begining, i have a planed piece of maple 60mm wide 9mm thick and about 2ft long its best to work with larger pieces of timber so as not to cut your fingers off working with little fiddley bits so best to stay above 1 foot long.next i rebate a slot along the length of the piece to recieve the base the piece i have for the base is 3mm thich so i pass the side stock over the table saw which i have set to a depth of half the thickness of the side stock i do this ...
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