Well, I decided that even though it was too expensive to use real Spanish cedar for a test project, that I should go ahead and make a liner anyway like I would do if this was going to be a real humidor. I found a really cool solution for parting the lid from the box. I was not to happy with all the techniques I’d seen using a table saw, because I knew I would lose 1/8” to the saw kerf. Instead, I bought this nifty little 6 Piece Rotary Saw Blade Kit at Harbor Freight: http:/...
I bought this Whiteside lock miter bit a couple weeks ago. This is my experience with it so far.The first thing I did was make a tall fence to go on my Jointech positioner. Next I made a couple of feather boards. Then I just eye balled the center of the bit to the center of my stock. And at the same time set the fence so the top edge of my stock would not be completely removed. If the fence is set to deep the complete edge will be removed. Resulting in snipe. Now I took my dial ...
Recently Big Al, i.e. “Boxguy” posted a jig he had built for cutting accurate mitre joints. I built one this afternoon, and thought I would share my attempt at making the same jig. Total cost for the jig was around $17.00 – - the all in one clamp. The time was 2 1/2 hours. MDF remnants, left over material from other projects, and junk drawer parts finished it to this point. Still have to finish up the stop system, but was anxious to use it today, so will add the stop tom...
Starting to look like something now. Still needs a little more sanding and a nice finish before parting the top from the bottom. I had intended to do a fully functional humidor for this test, but I went to Woodcrafters today and found out that Spanish Cedar has skyrocketed, so since this is a test, I will probably make the liner out of some inexpensive wood and just make this a box. The wood is hemlock, and is very cheap, but I chose it because I liked the nice tight straight grain. It ...
The hard maple table displayed in my projects needs chairs. We have a small house and a small dining room. The chairs must slide mostly under the table out of the way. Another LJ displayed his low back chair and the idea was born! I bought Charles Brocks plans and video. I chose hard maple to match the table. Sure it’s hard. But once you’re grinding with carbide tools and sanding to sculpt it doesn’t matter much. I’m keeping track of my hours because I...
Ok, where were we…Headboard joinery is wrapped up at this point and it’s time for the sideboards (as I’m calling them.) The sideboards attached with some connector bolts and cross-dowels/barrels a la a bed bolt setup. I didn’t want to rely on a 1/4” bolt alone to hold the weight of the mattress, frame, and the little one so a added a stubby tenon to the lower rail to carry the load with the bed bolts holding the joint tight. I used the same router jig for the ...
This is a picture of my first test humidor, obviously it’s a work in progress. I’m using box joints like this for it, and I am using the Freud box joint table saw blade set. I chose some cheap hemlock because I was not sure how well I would do. Aside from some tear out because my table saw jig was set up ( sawn through ) for 3/4” depth of cut, and now for the build I’m using 1/2” wood and depth of cut, it didn’t come out too badly. The tear out problem was...
I fancied up my guitar amp head recently. And actually made something out of a wood that isn’t quarter sawn white oak. I went exotic… walnut. The full blog post and loads of build pics are here… http://dcwwoodworks.com/blog/2014/1/16/i-made-a-head Thanks
This countertop around oven range will be made of two separate pieces which connect through a “bridge” with one seam behind the range. The right part is about 13” x 24”, the left—37” x 24”. The bridge is of two parts, each is 40” x 3” and to be glued to either left or right side to allow one seam connection. Cut the 1-13/16” walnut boards into segments: The left side glue-up: Two boards of the right side glue-up: ...
Over the course of couple of weeks I slowly milled the pieces down to final dimensions and it was time to start with the joinery! The “headboard” ends, as I call them, will be mortise and tenoned with the spindles captured between an upper an lower rail. Because I’m a glutton for punishment I decided I’d do a double tenon to give the frame plenty of strength. Considering I hadn’t cut/chopped a mortise in over a decade it was going to be sink or swin… I cut ...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1365 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Just for Fun... - 84 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1388 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 392 entries
- dbhost - 389 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- mafe - 228 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 190 entries
- Rustic - 185 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- shipwright - 180 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 166 entries
- PurpLev - 163 entries
- stefang - 157 entries