Well, the tops have taken longer than I anticipated. But it has turned out nice. The original Short Block V8 designed with a Torsten box top but I wanted a solid top. After lots of consideration I decided that I wanted the top to be Baltic Birch laminated on edge for the top. This would be consistent with the leg construction and would make for a very solid top. However this presented an issue as Baltic Birch is not cheap (best price here in Oregon, USA is $55.00 for a 5×5’ sheet...
I forgot to update last week. I didn’t get much done because I was busy fixing a mistake. In episode 6 I showed a picture of the end tenon and the lead screw channel cut out. The weird thing is that the huge mortise cut into the end of the tenon. The mortise was too wide and I didn’t notice until last week I was thinking about it when I was in bed. That’s when I do my best thinking. I got up in the morning and checked the drawing and I was right. The drawing says the mortise...
Final finishing up of the woodworking part of this project! I attach the hutch to the subframe, and then that assembly to the top. I also make the interior back and the back of the hutch. As always, I welcome your questions and comments! http://youtu.be/0wOl6AJZw9w
Hello All, I have an acquaintance who has done some large favors for me over the last couple of years. I was compelled to recompense him somehow, eventually insisting he let me make for him the woodshop project of his choice. After powwowing with his wife, they came back with three choices of an end table, and this is the one i decided to make: [URL=http://s242.photobucket.com/user/pac1for/media/EisTabOrig.jpg.html][IMG]http://i242.photobucket.com/albums/ff313/pac1for/EisTabOrig.j...
After i finished the previous steps i decided, despite what Schwarz says about it, to put some finish on the inside. No pictures, figured no need. I masked off all the edges i didnt want anything on, then applied roughly 2-3 coats. Really all i did was use up the last of my Zinnzer clear waxed shellac, will apply some wax in the future. But onto what this part of the blog is about. I bought, off ebay a year or 2 ago, a decent Stanley #45 with a basic set of cutters and most of the parts...
Broke out the eggbeater drill, brace with countersink bit, and a screw driver. Marked out my holes with combo square and awl. Drove in some #10 1 1/4 slotted screws by hand, ended up with a blister. . 4 per side per shelf, overkill i believe, planned on only 3 but apparently my subconscious kicked in and made me do 4. they are all clocked inline with the grain for you ocd individuals (wish i had some Citric acid to remove the zinc plating) I shoulda went with my first idea and coun...
measuring/marking out the dados for the shelvesmarked out the bottom shelf 8.5” above the dovetail baseline with a knifeused the shelf to mark the other side of dado in the same manner after cutting a “knifewall” Used my Millers Falls router plane set at 3/8” depth to cut the baseline of dado didnt get any pictures of cutting out the dados but same process as described in Paul Sellers video here, and in Chris Albees dutch chest videos here using the router pl...
It started with me cutting my sides, bottom, and shelves/dividers to rough length with my xcut D8 on sawbench, then cleaning/squaring up the ends with my Stanley #4 1/2 and the sides with my #5 1/2 and #8. I then ganged sides up in my moxon and go in house and refresh my memory on layout with Megan Fitzpatricks youtube video . I then proceed to mark out my tails and to cut them. I ran into some trouble, what little practice i had with cutting some dovetails was with completely seaso...
I needed a few things to happen before i started this build. The chest joinery, while fairly simple, required me to have a few fixtures and tools i did not have. Since i have full intention to do this with hand tools, this required a few jigs as well. One of the big parts of making this chest was the Dovetailed bottom. I have never attempted to cut a dovetail before this, though have always wanted to try. I did not have a true dovetail saw, though not necessarily needed. I have a couple ch...
For this Art Nouveau coffee table base system I’m using African Mahogany Hardwoods. A lot of planning went into figuring out the joinery. Half of the wood will be grinded away to get the large curves and shapes to blend together for this art nouveau style. By pin nailing hardwood blocking around the bottom back legs with two 45 degree angles also around the tenons. I was able to use had saws to do most of the cutting. The drill press really came in handy for drilling out the mortise ...
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