I know, more cheap shelves. Let’s face it, most of us would rather buy tools not shelves. With that in mind here is a shlef that only requires 2×4s, 1/2” plywood, wood screws,& some nuts,bolts, & washers. I have seen quite a few of your workshops out there, And a lot of you have metal buildings with C or Z purlins to columns type metal building construction. So this will be the kind of drawing that I’m posting today. You can apply the same principles to a buildi...
In the last blog, I completed the tails for the project (after a few mistakes). The next steps are a lot faster and less error prone. Line up to the A cuts and then first step in cutting the tails is to set the stop block so it just barely misses the bit. Making sure to keep you fence mark side aligned against fence (easy to forget for this step), cut one full set of pins, advancing to each A cut. Then check the fit. As you can see, I am shallow by 1/16”. So I ne...
So I got a monster solid-WOOD-core door from when they tore down the bowling alley on Redstone Arsenal. I now wish I had scored a few more, but that is hindsight. (PLEASE don’t even mention the actual alleys, you can read about that kind of heartache or learning experience “here on LJ:” We had big solid-core doors on offices at work. Long-story-short, I found a distributor who discarded many doors per quarter and was happy to give them away, details “HERE“ ...
Not sure that these are the fairest of them all but they did come out ok. Used left over face frame material to make the mirror frames. Started out by routing a two tiered rabbet – the inner rabbit for the 1/8” mirror (next time I will leave the mirror slightly proud so backer applies some pressure) and the outer rabbet for the 1/8” masonite backer board. Most of you probably know this, but this project really drove home the importance of feather boards in both direct...
Now I have the following items.1. Router table with a 3/4” pattern bit installed in the router.2. Drawer front3. Drawer sides4. Router template/jig Using your template and drawer side stacked, adjust the bit height so that the cut is a 1/64” too deep (if I set it flush I end up unsatisfied with the fit) Set the template on the end of the drawer front with the best grain towards the template fence . Then center the front so that the teeth (for lack of a better term) are even,...
With the sides all nice and coplanar, time to mill a rabbet for a bottom. Set up a router with a 3/8” rabbetting bit, and ran it around the edges. Squared the corners with a chisel. Now, I get told there is to be a divider in this desk. Hunt around for a piece of scrap wood to make the divider. I also needed a dado for it to be installed. So, I laid one out, about three inches from the front. handsawn, and then chiseled to remove the waste And repeat for the other s...
A friend of mine, who took a day from work and drove 6hrs round trip, ran a new 100 AMP panel from the house to my woodshop. When I tried to give him money, he refused and asked only that I make him something. I said sure thing… He asked me to build a prayer kneeler for his house. He only had one requirement, which was that it be made out of scrap that I had on hand in the shop. After looking at many sites and other postings of those who make kneelers I have finally have a start.
Ok, so the carcass (correct term?) of the file cabinet is all glued up and came out really nice. I have a few touch ups with a sanding block to do. I set off this morning in search of decent 1/2” plywood to make the two drawers. I ended up driving 1/2 an hour into town to Rockler to pickup a sheet of 1/2” Baltic Birch and some 1/4” for the bottoms, along with some satin Arm R Seal. Made a side trip on the way home to Lowes to spend the gift cards that were burning a ho...
Well, Landlord WAS coming over to finish the painting upstars…..fell asleep. he will TRY to get over here in the morning….he says. Wandered down to the shop, to see what sort of trouble I could get into…. Had three parts to make tenons on….two had curved sides. Might be a bit tricky to clamp in the end vise? I picked out a scrap of walnut from when I sawed the curved parts. Had to trim the ends back a bit.. So I could clear the “work area”...
This time I mark the layout for how the butterfly hinge is going to be installed. Then I use a steel rod and bushings to create the hinge mechanism. This all gets installed into the support system of the table so the leaf will store under the table when it is not in use. I also show how I add the splines to the edges, and a cool way to hide the end grain of the splines. Then I level the table halves, then the leaf to the rest of the top. Almost complete! As always, I welcome your questio...
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