Now I see why they have machines to do this… I think I went into this overconfident in my abilities. How hard could it be to cut out a simple notch in a board??? Fairly hard when your attitude exceeds your ability. First, I bought a ‘fancier’ saw than the basic dovetail saw and it just made things worse. Then – when that didn’t work I broke out the coping saw for some nice wavy cuts, I got out the chisel and tore it up real good, and finally… the D...
Updated 1/15/12 Now we need to cut a recess in the lid for the medallion to set down into.DONT cut your medallion until you have routed out the home for it.I typically make the medallion about 1” to 1.5” smaller on all sides than the lid depending on the box size and the piece of wood I have for the medallion. We are now going to make a simple jig for a router to set on and run back and forth making several passes of incrementally deeper cuts. There are a several ways to do ...
We recently purchased a new washer, & dryer, & we didn’t want to spend $400 for the factory pedestals, so I’m making my own. They should cost us about $75 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~This is the factory made pedestal~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~The front load machines are kind of low without a pedestal. It makes it kind of tough on the back muscles.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~...
I’m surprised at how much progress I’ve made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf. I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I’m done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build. So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5. I got these boards fl...
The continuation of my Thorsen Hall table. The beginning is here My wife is happy with what is happening so far. I suggested that I try the other Greene and Greene feature that is the breadboard spline a key between the top and the breadboard end. I used a book that I bought on Greene and Greene furniture. The book is called Greene and Greene Design Elements for the Workshop by Darrell Peart published by Linden Publishing 2005. I got a piece of Blackwood 1 ¼” square and 5” long. ...
I’ve tried all sorts of methods fro attaching face frames to furniture and cabinetry. In this little blog I will list the various methods I know of, along with my 2 cents on each method. Most of these example show a plywood case, but the principle is the same when working with a solid case. Disclaimer- I realize pictures are helpful, and I don’t have picture for every method…...so many are borrowed from the interwebz. I’ll be sure to pass on some of my royalties to ...
I guess I’ve been poking along on this project long enough now. Here are some more pictures of my progress for you.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Sawing the Fonts, & backs of the drawers.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I drilled holes at the drawer bottoms, because of the short sawing radius. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Gluing the drawer fronts, & backs. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~...
Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures: First, set gauge: Mark tailboard w/ miter: Mark, knifeline and cut mitered edge: Using coping saw to clear the pin ‘waste’ between the tails: All Clean! Now for the challenge. Hard to scribe cutlines on the pinboard because of the miter cut: Cutting the pin board miters: Clearing pin was...
Well, after two power outages that caused the loss of the last two attempts, I think I’ve got this “save” thing down. We left off last time with a admonition to make a detailed plan of the proposed final project for which the board we are about to make will be used. The next step is to select the lumber with which to make the board. This is a major step. First the species is to be determined. MDF is out! As is plywood. Rose wood is nice and so is bird’s eye maple...
I’m so close! The clamps are holding the oak backer board on … which is holding the mirror in place. The top oak trim cap is just sitting there. The bottom trim cap was a no-show on photo day. It looks suspiciously like the top piece. BUT … I’m almost done! The trim blocks (the four corner pieces that surround the frame) are glued on. I’m going to run the top and bottom edges through my jointer, along with the top and bottom cap pieces … just to ...
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