Part 3updated 1/15/12 Regarding size:Size and proportions are important…to a point. We will be building a box that will start out at 11 1/8 W x 7 D x 4 1/2 H. (After shaping it will finish out at about 10 3/4’’ x 6 3/4’’ x 3 1/8 h depending on how much shaping is done.) I like the proportions of this box, they just look good to my eye. They are loosely based on the Golden Ratio which is a ratio of 1.618. There is much more to it than that, but simply put, here is how it works in rela...
When my step daughter wanted to upgrade the fireplace mantle in her family room, we worked from a picture in a magazine she had, to come up with a design that was similar but would work in her room. We also added some crown molding and then repainted the room. Since all work was to be painted, we were able to fill screw holes and the saw kerfs we used to curve the crown molding. For filler we used Bondo, which while designed for the automotive industry, it is a great product for woodworker...
This board is not part of the 150.. I showed one of the 150 to a friend and she wanted one but a little larger,This is the way it was made.Cut some bits of board. NGR SA TBDress all sides.This is to see the way it will look with the stripe. Cut all pieces to 250 mm.Join the NGR and edge with TB on one and SA for the other.Glue a sacrificial board to the SA prior to cutting the arcs.This is the arc cutting jig.. a slight variation on the patron jigSet the stop with a nail… high tech I kn...
Well this was my first try at assembling a Corian top for the base cabinets. I didn’t take any pictures of the actual gluing because I wasn’t sure of the amount of time I’d have as i was doing that process. Now that I have a better feel for the amount of time it takes, I’ll take some assembly pictures for the rest of the counter top. I started with the corner cabinet that is 24” X 24” and is where we currently have a microwave and toaster. New cabi...
Why don’t the high end brass hinges for boxes, small cabinets, etc. come with screws? The hinges are great but this makes you go out and find the correct sized brass screw. And the screws are too damn soft and break off. I’m not trying to be a brute with them. I drill an appropriate sized pilot hole on a test piece of wood first to make sure the screw will glide in and out without breaking. I usually tap the hole with a steel screw to be on the safe side. And then I screw ...
Now I see why they have machines to do this… I think I went into this overconfident in my abilities. How hard could it be to cut out a simple notch in a board??? Fairly hard when your attitude exceeds your ability. First, I bought a ‘fancier’ saw than the basic dovetail saw and it just made things worse. Then – when that didn’t work I broke out the coping saw for some nice wavy cuts, I got out the chisel and tore it up real good, and finally… the D...
I’m surprised at how much progress I’ve made since the last blog, especially since this part was pretty hand tool intensive. The following is the process I went through the make the lower shelf. I had a bunch of rough sawn Red Oak that was perfect to use up on the shelf. I’m done making furniture out of Red Oak so I really wanted to burn through it all with this bench build. So I got a nice workout two days ago with the wooden Fore, Scrub, and Stanley #5. I got these boards fl...
The continuation of my Thorsen Hall table. The beginning is here My wife is happy with what is happening so far. I suggested that I try the other Greene and Greene feature that is the breadboard spline a key between the top and the breadboard end. I used a book that I bought on Greene and Greene furniture. The book is called Greene and Greene Design Elements for the Workshop by Darrell Peart published by Linden Publishing 2005. I got a piece of Blackwood 1 ¼” square and 5” long. ...
I guess I’ve been poking along on this project long enough now. Here are some more pictures of my progress for you.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Sawing the Fonts, & backs of the drawers.~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~I drilled holes at the drawer bottoms, because of the short sawing radius. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~Gluing the drawer fronts, & backs. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~...
Okay, if mitered dovetails are the objective and three tries is what it takes to make it happen, then here is number two… In pictures: First, set gauge: Mark tailboard w/ miter: Mark, knifeline and cut mitered edge: Using coping saw to clear the pin ‘waste’ between the tails: All Clean! Now for the challenge. Hard to scribe cutlines on the pinboard because of the miter cut: Cutting the pin board miters: Clearing pin waste: H...
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