A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES. Assumption: I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side...
While my leg vise hardware is still being machined to mate screw and the wheel I’ve been working on the legs. In particular got ready for draw-boring. My target was 10mm pegs (3/8” approx). I made them from rough oak stock: first planed it a little, then ripped into beams and planed square blanks about 11×11mm (7/16” approx), so I had about 1mm allowance (1/32” approx). Then I rounded them roughly with the block plane: At this point dowels w...
After creating a program to calculate dimensions and cutting angles and designing and building a jig to make the cuts with, I was ready to put things into practice. My first trial was with some old (30+years) cedar fence pickets. I wanted an old “barnwood” 3-D star. I quickly decided that even though the wood was cheap (free), it varied greatly in thickness, even within one piece, and it was extremely brittle and splintered easily when cut. Needless to say, I wasn’t pl...
Trying to cut narrow pieces for the stars at steep angles and bevels on my radial arm saw required some assistance. I designed a simple jig that would clamp into the table in the fence joint, anywhere along the fence joint. You can make angle cuts to ~60 degrees left or right while leaving the saw carriage arm to run straight back and forth. You can bevel the saw carriage to ~70 degrees to create compound cuts on small pieces. Best of all, you can clamp down the workpiece and keep your han...
Not much progress since last time, but still some. First of all, I made my wagon vise a handle. It’s been cut from raw oak stock that I took from my country house almost two years ago. I started with planing it to be a square, then to be octagonal, then I doubled number of edges yet more couple of times, and finished with some very light sanding. To make end knobs I used my poor man’s lathe: Time after time I use it to turn knobs, handles and such: And here is my ...
I have realized that my router insert I made for my table saw could benefit from having a miter slot closer to it, so I decided just to route one into it. It seemed logical to reinforce the area underneath the slot, since I was taking away half of the 3/4” of plywood and creating a fault line in a piece that supports a motor spinning carbide bits and thousands of rpms seemed less than optimal. The only drawback is that I don’t have T-slot doing it this way. I don...
Watch how to use a spline miter jig on the table saw. Two simple and easy to make table saw spline miter jigs are demonstrated in this woodworking video presentation. Watch how the woodworker cuts accurate spline slots into the miter joints of picture frames. The two splined miter jigs are of differing sizes because the picture frames very in size. Notice how easy it is to cut the slots for the splines. Simply secure the picture frames to the jigs by using spring clamps. Adjust the heig...
I got side tracked and didn’t accomplish any of the goals that I set for today. The day wasn’t a total loss though. I made a batch of chili and I watched a few videos on dovetail joints and marked up my boards. I need to clear space on my bench to do the cutting, so that was my excuse for not starting on them until I finish gluing up the top. Out in the garage, I glued up a few more rows and while I was waiting for the glue to dry, I started thinking about the game pieces th...
Inspired by Rmac’s tool rest here: http://lumberjocks.com/projects/44468 After building the base I decided to simplify things a bit, eliminating the sliding piece on top as I won’t be needing it and using a single pivoting support under the tool bed allowing greater range of angles. I used 3/4” material instead of 1/2”. It’s not quite done, there is a 1/4” dowel acting as the pivot pin until I get to the store and buy a 1/4” carriage bolt and wingn...
Hello again. I printed out a plan and side elevation 1:1 so The first thing to do is make a simple jig for cutting circles (arcs) in wood veneer. For this I will be using; an offcut of 18mm MDF, four pieces of 3mm Hardboard (Masonite) and a 6mm dowel. First drill a 6mm hole 15mm in from two adjacent edges in all the Hardboard pieces. and a 6mm hole near one end and central in the MDF Glue the dowel into the hole in the MDF and using a suitable jig, route (with a st...
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