I started this project for a friend a few months ago and will be putting the finishing touches on soon. It is a plywood box with pine face frame. I used my Kreg Jig for all the joints. This is the largest project I have tackled to date and has been a great learning experience. The plan has changed from the original drawings as we learned along the way. My wife might be a little upset that I have spent at least four times the cost of materials in new tools (and then some). I tell her it is an ...
Well this week was a busy week and I didn’t get to make a video project for this past Wednesday. So I thought I would Share this quick project video with you today. For a recent project I needed to make a larger version of an angle gauge to allow me to get the exact angle of an inside corner of a corner shower. After borrowing one from a fellow woodworker, I decided I needed one for the shop. Here is a look at making the simple but very useful over sized angle finder. These are commonly...
Adding Splines To a Box Assumptions: I assume you have looked at the tutorial on making the splines themselves. The tutorial on cutting the splines slots with the jig there gives you a box that looks like this on the corner. The next step is to glue the splines into the slots. I should have pictured it, but I apply Tightbond’s Carpenter’s and Trim Glue to both the spline and the slot to assure there will be a good bond. This thicker glue is easier to work with, and...
I make two kinds of box tops. Boxes with inset tops (above) where the the top floats in a dadoed groove that runs around the sides, and attached tops where the top is glued directly onto the sides of the box. This tutorial will feature the attached top method, and a press design to help with this process. Of course you can use clamps to hold the top on until the glue sets. But I prefer this press. The press features 8 all-thread sections with a compression spring an...
A Quick, Accurate Way To 45 Your Corners If you build boxes at all, eventually you tire of cranking your blade from 90 degrees to 45 degrees and back…I did. So I built this simple jig, and now I can cut all 8 ends of a box accurately in about 5 minutes, AND STILL LEAVE MY TABLE SAW SET AT 90 DEGREES. Assumption: I am assuming that you have already laid out the board for your sides and have cut all four sides of your box to length. Short side, long side, short side, long side...
While my leg vise hardware is still being machined to mate screw and the wheel I’ve been working on the legs. In particular got ready for draw-boring. My target was 10mm pegs (3/8” approx). I made them from rough oak stock: first planed it a little, then ripped into beams and planed square blanks about 11×11mm (7/16” approx), so I had about 1mm allowance (1/32” approx). Then I rounded them roughly with the block plane: At this point dowels w...
After creating a program to calculate dimensions and cutting angles and designing and building a jig to make the cuts with, I was ready to put things into practice. My first trial was with some old (30+years) cedar fence pickets. I wanted an old “barnwood” 3-D star. I quickly decided that even though the wood was cheap (free), it varied greatly in thickness, even within one piece, and it was extremely brittle and splintered easily when cut. Needless to say, I wasn’t pl...
Trying to cut narrow pieces for the stars at steep angles and bevels on my radial arm saw required some assistance. I designed a simple jig that would clamp into the table in the fence joint, anywhere along the fence joint. You can make angle cuts to ~60 degrees left or right while leaving the saw carriage arm to run straight back and forth. You can bevel the saw carriage to ~70 degrees to create compound cuts on small pieces. Best of all, you can clamp down the workpiece and keep your han...
Not much progress since last time, but still some. First of all, I made my wagon vise a handle. It’s been cut from raw oak stock that I took from my country house almost two years ago. I started with planing it to be a square, then to be octagonal, then I doubled number of edges yet more couple of times, and finished with some very light sanding. To make end knobs I used my poor man’s lathe: Time after time I use it to turn knobs, handles and such: And here is my ...
I have realized that my router insert I made for my table saw could benefit from having a miter slot closer to it, so I decided just to route one into it. It seemed logical to reinforce the area underneath the slot, since I was taking away half of the 3/4” of plywood and creating a fault line in a piece that supports a motor spinning carbide bits and thousands of rpms seemed less than optimal. The only drawback is that I don’t have T-slot doing it this way. I don...
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