I recently made a stone top table with Mortise and Tenon Joinery. I was thinking of making more of these tables, also ~3×3” legs with 1.5” thick aprons would make some pretty sweet work tables out of construction grade pine. Normally I would simply use a router and edge guide to make the mortise, then cut the tenons with a combination of hand tools (to cut shoulders) and bandsaw for the cheeks, then cleaned up with a router plane. However since I want to make multiple tables I figu...
I woke up early this morning with an idea of using Legos to quickly build an incremental table saw jig. This jig helped me quickly produce a new clamp rack that incorporates my new parallel clamps. The 1×8 line pieces acted as stop blocks for crosscutting dadoes. (in the future, I’ll use 2×8 pieces to reduce play). When one cut was complete, I removed that line, scooted the board to the next line, and cut another. For my parallel clamps, a line every 6 circles was perfec...
I recieved a email from Woodpeckers tool sale for some Glue-up Panel Blocks. I thought thats a cool idea and a quick way to keep boards flat while gluing them up. While the price seemed fair, I have a close friend thats has a machine shop and we always like hanging out and working together. He has alot of materaial stocked up over the years as well. So this is what we came up with. Size is 7” x 3” x 1 1/2” Aluminum. We machined them on the Brigeport...
Summer is over and work, my business and life in gerneral have taken almost all my time. And my chair project have slowed down considerable. But in shorter periods i have had time in the workshop and done as much as possible. This is a compilation of 6 weeks: Last time we left about here: This looked cool but i was not totally satisfied. Things i wanted to improve was:- The back rest. It is too low and somehow just not´right´ - The general feel of the chair. Is it a little too static?-...
For the waterfall leg, I’m using Full Blind Multiple Splined joinery as described by Tage Frid. I discovered this method by asking a question in a forum post here on LJ. Thanks to Woodendeavor and Randy-ATX for directing me this way. I purchased three of his books. This description is found on pp. 102ff of Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, Book 1: Joinery The joint looks like this: The two biggest keys will be to cut the slab correctly and building the jig so the miters line up...
These types of guides are used for cross cutting boards with your circular saw and have been around for a long time, you can even buy one if you want too. Here’s how I made mine.
Here is the next post in which I put the new jig to use. I’d love to hear any feedback on the jig. Thanks! http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/06/using-a-jig-to-make-mitered-corners/
Part 1 of my latest post on Craftsy:http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/06/make-a-jig-for-cutting-miters-bevels/ I think this jig is pretty unique. Hope you find it useful.
They’re done. All 256 of them. I rethought and then reconfigured the jig a bit so I could keep the same reference surface when drilling both ends of the “rungs”. It went very quickly: That was the very first one and it took a little under a minute. 32 of them took a little under a half hour. Next I had to drill the mating holes in the stiles. I rebuilt the jig from the same parts, marked up the pieces, and started drilling: With some trepidation, I dry fit tw...
Been working on a number of bottle openers and decided to try a lacquer finish on them as it should hold up a bit better. Problem was how to apply the finish on a round thing. Here is the simple solution I came up with. Basic piece of scrap wood (actually game that did not work out) 3/8” bolts and nuts. It worked worked well. I have 5 new bottle openers already dried with lacquer and the epoxy is now curing on them. Looking forward to delivering these to the gift shop ...
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