I was recently asked about the jigs I use on my Skil table saw, so I thought I’d add this blog entry about the ones I’ve built and use. [Above and below] First up is my crosscut sled. This is the first jig I built for my table saw. It’s down and dirty with no frills added, no hold down t-tracks or anything. If I need a stop block I just clamp it to the back of the jig. The red strip on either side of the blade is a ‘replaceable’ strip I put in after the f...
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In the process of building a crib, I ended up needed an efficient way to cut 76 perfectly aligned mortises for vertical slats. I designed the slats to be 1/2” thick and then rounded over both edges of the slat witha 1/4” round over bit to create the shape of the slat. Then using a 1/2” upsprial router bit and homemade jig I was able cut 1/2” wide mortise to fit the 1/2 thick slats and then the rounded over slat edges would fit perfectly into the rounded ends of these ...
I recently made a stone top table with Mortise and Tenon Joinery. I was thinking of making more of these tables, also ~3×3” legs with 1.5” thick aprons would make some pretty sweet work tables out of construction grade pine. Normally I would simply use a router and edge guide to make the mortise, then cut the tenons with a combination of hand tools (to cut shoulders) and bandsaw for the cheeks, then cleaned up with a router plane. However since I want to make multiple tables I figu...
I woke up early this morning with an idea of using Legos to quickly build an incremental table saw jig. This jig helped me quickly produce a new clamp rack that incorporates my new parallel clamps. The 1×8 line pieces acted as stop blocks for crosscutting dadoes. (in the future, I’ll use 2×8 pieces to reduce play). When one cut was complete, I removed that line, scooted the board to the next line, and cut another. For my parallel clamps, a line every 6 circles was perfec...
I recieved a email from Woodpeckers tool sale for some Glue-up Panel Blocks. I thought thats a cool idea and a quick way to keep boards flat while gluing them up. While the price seemed fair, I have a close friend thats has a machine shop and we always like hanging out and working together. He has alot of materaial stocked up over the years as well. So this is what we came up with. Size is 7” x 3” x 1 1/2” Aluminum. We machined them on the Brigeport...
Summer is over and work, my business and life in gerneral have taken almost all my time. And my chair project have slowed down considerable. But in shorter periods i have had time in the workshop and done as much as possible. This is a compilation of 6 weeks: Last time we left about here: This looked cool but i was not totally satisfied. Things i wanted to improve was:- The back rest. It is too low and somehow just not´right´ - The general feel of the chair. Is it a little too static?-...
For the waterfall leg, I’m using Full Blind Multiple Splined joinery as described by Tage Frid. I discovered this method by asking a question in a forum post here on LJ. Thanks to Woodendeavor and Randy-ATX for directing me this way. I purchased three of his books. This description is found on pp. 102ff of Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, Book 1: Joinery The joint looks like this: The two biggest keys will be to cut the slab correctly and building the jig so the miters line up...
These types of guides are used for cross cutting boards with your circular saw and have been around for a long time, you can even buy one if you want too. Here’s how I made mine.
Here is the next post in which I put the new jig to use. I’d love to hear any feedback on the jig. Thanks! http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/06/using-a-jig-to-make-mitered-corners/
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