For the top of this art Nouveau style coffee table top which is 60” wide by 80” long, needing to cut a perfect ellipse onto 1” thick 17 ply apple plywood. To make this cutting jig I used 3/4” and 1” thick apple plywood which is very expensive and very durable and hardly ever warps. A. Starting with the dovetail slotted base that screws to the bottom side of the top when cutting. The base is 1” thick 22” square, then route in two 1” wide 5/8...
Below 20 pictures from making a jig. This jig is used on a router table to make notches in tractor wheels, but it’s also possible to use it on circle saw. You can’t see it on the the pictures but this jig glides between two guides. Thanks for watching
I recently built Nick Offerman’s leveling jig from Fine Woodworking (I think it’s from #222). I made it a little stockier than his, longer and wider, to allow leveling slabs up to 8’ x 5’ in size. I’m in the process of building a workbench. The first step was to use the jig to level the bench. I used shims to level an area of garage floor under the support beams. I placed the workbench top (which is made of two layers of 6/4 elm and weighs about 200 pounds) on...
It always was difficult for me to make the holes parallel in the axle. I made a little jig to solve this problem. From plywood I made a 100% right-angle “jig”. On this plywood I put two wheels The screw in the “middle” of the wheel has an offset from 2 mm. By turning the wheel I can clamp the axle. Below you can see how it worked out: Below is the situation on the drill press:
Here is the video where I built a cross cut sled for my table saw. Hope this is helpful and feel free to leave a comment. If you enjoy it or find it useful please like, comment, subscribe, and share. Woodshop Confessions - Cross Cut Sled
I was recently asked about the jigs I use on my Skil table saw, so I thought I’d add this blog entry about the ones I’ve built and use. [Above and below] First up is my crosscut sled. This is the first jig I built for my table saw. It’s down and dirty with no frills added, no hold down t-tracks or anything. If I need a stop block I just clamp it to the back of the jig. The red strip on either side of the blade is a ‘replaceable’ strip I put in after the f...
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In the process of building a crib, I ended up needed an efficient way to cut 76 perfectly aligned mortises for vertical slats. I designed the slats to be 1/2” thick and then rounded over both edges of the slat witha 1/4” round over bit to create the shape of the slat. Then using a 1/2” upsprial router bit and homemade jig I was able cut 1/2” wide mortise to fit the 1/2 thick slats and then the rounded over slat edges would fit perfectly into the rounded ends of these ...
I recently made a stone top table with Mortise and Tenon Joinery. I was thinking of making more of these tables, also ~3×3” legs with 1.5” thick aprons would make some pretty sweet work tables out of construction grade pine. Normally I would simply use a router and edge guide to make the mortise, then cut the tenons with a combination of hand tools (to cut shoulders) and bandsaw for the cheeks, then cleaned up with a router plane. However since I want to make multiple tables I figu...
I woke up early this morning with an idea of using Legos to quickly build an incremental table saw jig. This jig helped me quickly produce a new clamp rack that incorporates my new parallel clamps. The 1×8 line pieces acted as stop blocks for crosscutting dadoes. (in the future, I’ll use 2×8 pieces to reduce play). When one cut was complete, I removed that line, scooted the board to the next line, and cut another. For my parallel clamps, a line every 6 circles was perfec...
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