Summer is over and work, my business and life in gerneral have taken almost all my time. And my chair project have slowed down considerable. But in shorter periods i have had time in the workshop and done as much as possible. This is a compilation of 6 weeks: Last time we left about here: This looked cool but i was not totally satisfied. Things i wanted to improve was:- The back rest. It is too low and somehow just not´right´ - The general feel of the chair. Is it a little too static?-...
For the waterfall leg, I’m using Full Blind Multiple Splined joinery as described by Tage Frid. I discovered this method by asking a question in a forum post here on LJ. Thanks to Woodendeavor and Randy-ATX for directing me this way. I purchased three of his books. This description is found on pp. 102ff of Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking, Book 1: Joinery The joint looks like this: The two biggest keys will be to cut the slab correctly and building the jig so the miters line up...
These types of guides are used for cross cutting boards with your circular saw and have been around for a long time, you can even buy one if you want too. Here’s how I made mine.
Here is the next post in which I put the new jig to use. I’d love to hear any feedback on the jig. Thanks! http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/06/using-a-jig-to-make-mitered-corners/
Part 1 of my latest post on Craftsy:http://www.craftsy.com/blog/2014/06/make-a-jig-for-cutting-miters-bevels/ I think this jig is pretty unique. Hope you find it useful.
They’re done. All 256 of them. I rethought and then reconfigured the jig a bit so I could keep the same reference surface when drilling both ends of the “rungs”. It went very quickly: That was the very first one and it took a little under a minute. 32 of them took a little under a half hour. Next I had to drill the mating holes in the stiles. I rebuilt the jig from the same parts, marked up the pieces, and started drilling: With some trepidation, I dry fit tw...
Been working on a number of bottle openers and decided to try a lacquer finish on them as it should hold up a bit better. Problem was how to apply the finish on a round thing. Here is the simple solution I came up with. Basic piece of scrap wood (actually game that did not work out) 3/8” bolts and nuts. It worked worked well. I have 5 new bottle openers already dried with lacquer and the epoxy is now curing on them. Looking forward to delivering these to the gift shop ...
A while ago I put up a project where I made some straight wooden track, compatible with Brio and Learning Curve (Thomas) track. Since then, I have kept in the back of my mind how I might easily and cheaply make curved track, switches, and more easily form the male and female ends (without buying expensive, specialized router bits.) I believe I have found the answer. A pin router jig. I first learned about these from a video by Jim Steinbrecher, and later by a much clearer and concise ...
I’ve been making the saw frame for my Chevalet project. The joinery calls for some tenon like finger joints that are fairly thin. I felt I needed a table saw tenoning jig for this work to get an acceptable result, so I made a simple one that took about and hour working at my usual snail pace. Many of you will think this is woodworking 101 stuff, and you would be right, but I think it worth sharing anyway since it is easy to build out of scrap and requires nothing more than some flat ...
With the CC Sled (nearly) completed, in the last blog entry, it was time to put it to use.However, it was not safe for human (or my) use….There wasn’t a “Blade Guard Box”, nor did I have any hold downs.This left fingers in serious peril!!!ALL of that changed today…. I was able to attach the “Blade Guard Box”, for where the blade exits the sled.I feel sooooo much safer now!!! ;^) But that isn’t the reason for this posting….I was also ...
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