I finished routing out dog holes. Here’s what the jig looked like clamped over one of the roughed-out holes: Pretty straightforward, taking 1/16” or less off each side. A bit more work on the head recess, but way easier than hogging out the whole hole with the router. The darker area on the top of the jig is wax. And here’s what I mean by bacon: Those two boards should be flat and fit together without gaps! Instead I have 3/4” warpage over 4”. I wa...
I made this plane for the 2013 Plane Swap. It is also posted as a project, but I thought I’d give more details here. First, I draw up a plan. Fairly simple, but it helps me work out the shaping details and sort out any conflicts with the mouth opening. This plan shows a crosspin, but I changed my mind and went with the more traditional eared approach. It is still a laminated construction, with the ears being glued in after the fact. A bit of a challenge getting them ali...
I made this plane as a gift for a friend. He took a woodworking course to build a chair, and ran out of time. Hasn’t had any luck finding a shop to get some time in, so the pieces for the chair are sitting on a shelf in his apartment. I was hoping to inspire him to complete the project by giving him a tool he could use without needing a shop. We’ll see what happens. Jatoba body with beech stripe. Ipe sole. Tung oil and wax finish. 45 degree bed, Hock iron. I barely opened the mo...
Neither as long nor as wide as Derek Cohen's, but still pretty hefty: 24” long jointer, bedded at 45 degrees. The iron is a LV woodie, 2 3/8” wide. Beech body with ipe sole. The tote is cherry, knob is jatoba. Finish is tung oil. The knob is threaded in so I can remove it easily. Without the knob, I find it hard to get a good grip for planing or lifting it, so I just leave the knob on. I must admit that I’m not a hand plane purist. If I need to joint something in e...
I knew I’d come to this point – and I don’t mean throwing out pithy blog entry titles. I’d have to decide what kind of dog holes I want. Jameel Abraham (Mr. Benchcrafted) feels pretty strongly that square dogs are the only way. Chris Schwarz used to be agnostic, but now has a strong preference for round dogs. Lon Schleining suggests using both. Scott Landis doesn’t really state a preference in his book, but most of the benches he shows have square holes. ...
This is another jatoba plane. Apart from sanding end grain, jatoba is a relatively easy wood to work with. Machines well, holds an edge and seems to be pretty stable. I’ve also not (yet) encountered any boards with reaction wood. Kind of smells like a wet dog when being cut. I like it for planes because it is dense – the added mass in a small plane really helps performance. No stripes this time, just jatoba and an ipe sole. The bed is a fairly steep 60 degrees, which releg...
Next up is a 50 degree block plane. The body is jatoba with an ipe sole. The stripe in the middle is ebony and beech. Iron is a Hock 1 1/2”. Finish is Waterlox and wax. Thanks to the jatoba and the Hock iron, this thing weighs more than some metal block planes. It fits very comfortably in the hand. Jatoba is extremely hard and dense. Sanding end grain is about the same as sanding hardened steel. That’s a bit of an exaggeration, but not by much. Forget about doin...
This one is a smoother with a 45 degree bed. About 10 1/2” long Curly maple, jatoba stripes and ipe sole. (I have half a plank of 1×4 ipe – what else am I going to use it for besides soles for planes?) And another cut-down LV wooden plane iron. Finish is tung oil and wax. The configuration of the stripes was inspired by a picture of a AC Cobra in racing trim. Not a typical stripe configuration for a Cobra, so it stuck out. This one loves making beautifully f...
Managed to get all four sections of the top glued up. A bit laborious, but pretty straightforward. Decided to take a suggestion and use some jatoba for contrast. The plan was to glue up 4 sections of boards. Then I’d flatten each section before gluing the sections together. The rationale was that it would be easier to flatten each section using the powered jointer and planer than it would be the entire top using hand planes. There were two problems with this approach, both of whic...
I’ve been planning a workbench build for two years, maybe a bit longer. Started by reading everything I could, followed by some quality SketchUp time. Had a design, changed it. Tweaked it again. Threw the design out and started over. More tweaking followed. And so on… Settled on a Roubo variant, and ordered Benchcrafted hardware. A year and a half ago. Complete re-design once again. Did a couple tweaks to that and ordered the lumber. Should be well-acclimated to my shop by n...
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