(Edit: I’ve posted this as a project, too. Here.) This will be the final blog post of my bench build. There wasn’t much left to do. I finished the shaping of the chop and deadman, which mostly involved adding roundovers, fairing curves and sanding. Then I applied a coat of Waterlox: To assist with grip, it helps to add a facing of leather to the inside of the chop. Fortunately, part of the Benchcrafted package. Sized almost perfectly. Roughed up the chop face and appli...
Finally got some time to get back on the bench. After all, its only been 5 months since I last worked on it. Decided to tackle the end cap on the vise side. Condor tails for joinery, naturally :-) Popular Woodworking recently sent out an email with article from Jameel Abraham (Mr. Benchcrafted) on the process, pretty easy to follow. Link: http://www.popularwoodworking.com/techniques/make-condor-tails First, though, I laid out the tails full size and played around with sizes to get so...
To begin with, I want to thank you all for the encouraging comments on the new ornaments. It really feels nice to have so many cheerleaders when I am making a new project. It makes all the hard work so much worth it, knowing that people appreciate what I am doing. I spent the bulk of yesterday working on cutting out the remaining six pieces, and I began the finishing process. The cutting took probably about three hours and then I carefully sanded the pieces. I was a little co...
I finished routing out dog holes. Here’s what the jig looked like clamped over one of the roughed-out holes: Pretty straightforward, taking 1/16” or less off each side. A bit more work on the head recess, but way easier than hogging out the whole hole with the router. The darker area on the top of the jig is wax. And here’s what I mean by bacon: Those two boards should be flat and fit together without gaps! Instead I have 3/4” warpage over 4”. I wa...
I made this plane for the 2013 Plane Swap. It is also posted as a project, but I thought I’d give more details here. First, I draw up a plan. Fairly simple, but it helps me work out the shaping details and sort out any conflicts with the mouth opening. This plan shows a crosspin, but I changed my mind and went with the more traditional eared approach. It is still a laminated construction, with the ears being glued in after the fact. A bit of a challenge getting them ali...
I made this plane as a gift for a friend. He took a woodworking course to build a chair, and ran out of time. Hasn’t had any luck finding a shop to get some time in, so the pieces for the chair are sitting on a shelf in his apartment. I was hoping to inspire him to complete the project by giving him a tool he could use without needing a shop. We’ll see what happens. Jatoba body with beech stripe. Ipe sole. Tung oil and wax finish. 45 degree bed, Hock iron. I barely opened the mo...
Neither as long nor as wide as Derek Cohen's, but still pretty hefty: 24” long jointer, bedded at 45 degrees. The iron is a LV woodie, 2 3/8” wide. Beech body with ipe sole. The tote is cherry, knob is jatoba. Finish is tung oil. The knob is threaded in so I can remove it easily. Without the knob, I find it hard to get a good grip for planing or lifting it, so I just leave the knob on. I must admit that I’m not a hand plane purist. If I need to joint something in e...
I knew I’d come to this point – and I don’t mean throwing out pithy blog entry titles. I’d have to decide what kind of dog holes I want. Jameel Abraham (Mr. Benchcrafted) feels pretty strongly that square dogs are the only way. Chris Schwarz used to be agnostic, but now has a strong preference for round dogs. Lon Schleining suggests using both. Scott Landis doesn’t really state a preference in his book, but most of the benches he shows have square holes. ...
This is another jatoba plane. Apart from sanding end grain, jatoba is a relatively easy wood to work with. Machines well, holds an edge and seems to be pretty stable. I’ve also not (yet) encountered any boards with reaction wood. Kind of smells like a wet dog when being cut. I like it for planes because it is dense – the added mass in a small plane really helps performance. No stripes this time, just jatoba and an ipe sole. The bed is a fairly steep 60 degrees, which releg...
Next up is a 50 degree block plane. The body is jatoba with an ipe sole. The stripe in the middle is ebony and beech. Iron is a Hock 1 1/2”. Finish is Waterlox and wax. Thanks to the jatoba and the Hock iron, this thing weighs more than some metal block planes. It fits very comfortably in the hand. Jatoba is extremely hard and dense. Sanding end grain is about the same as sanding hardened steel. That’s a bit of an exaggeration, but not by much. Forget about doin...
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