Hi, I’ve seen these questions raised on several threads, and for many years didn’t know the answer to these myself. I just stumbled upon the “answers” which reminded me of the questions, so I figured I’d post it here for anyone that might be able to use it. I stumbled upon these on Lee-Valley website which is a golden fountain of knowledge if you know how to find it (some of their articles and tips are not visible, nor easy to come upon unless you stumble upon...
Update 2-19-2009: For photos of the restored Maillard Conformateur & Formillon For photos showing another restored Maillard Formillon here And photos of a Carrying Case for the Maillard Allie Conformateur and Formillon - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - – - ——sorry photos aren’t loading, I’m working on repairing this...
First of all let me say that this is the first hand plane I have ever made. I looked at some plans to get the general idea, but basically I am making it up as I go. There are things I did wrong but I will be able to fix them. I saw this type of sole on some planes in magazines and always wondered how they did it.It took me a while but I figured it out. Simple once you know how. I got ahead of myself didn’t get started taking pictures until later so I kind of went back over some th...
”Wood meets Felt” aka “Woodworker Meets Hatmakers” I’ve been trying to fit into my spare time the tedious work of making of several different hatmaking tool prototypes. Each of them has come along as a result of a custom hatmaker asking for one, and so I have met some cool folks that are passionately working at something they love doing. Hopefully, all of us will get tired of ball caps at some point and look for a style that is better looking, and actually...
After building the mock up, here is the parts list: Case:(2) sides – ¾” maple/plywood combo (46 ½ x 7 ½”)(1) top – ¾” plywood (13×7 ½”)(1) bottom – ¾” plywood (13×7 ½”)(1) shelf – ¾ plywood (13×5 ¼”)(1) back – ¼” plywood (46 ½ x 14 ½”) Ironing Board:(1) ironing board – ¾” MDF (42 ¼ x 12”) the last 13” are tapered down to a 4 1/2” circle (see pic below with cottage cheese container)(1) board support – ¾” MDF (12×11 ½”) rounded – see pic below(1) slid...
"Fold up" ironing board (reverse engineering) #1: measuring the model and planning any modifications
So as part of a Murphy bed build, I wanted to incorporate a fold up (or hide away) ironing board. I have seen these at Lowes and Home Deport starting off about $168. They don’t look that hard to build and I sure think I could save some money AND incorporate some better materials. Step 1: Take my tape measure to Lowes and jot down some critical measurements. Ok, I forgot paper. Let’s see, what can I find in my glove box? Perfect, my State Farm insurance cards, I can use the ...
Cap iron or chip breaker, blade or iron – Some folks write treatises about which term is “correct”. I use the one that comes to mind, they mean the same thing. Chip Breaker Function The chip breaker adds mass to the blade and adds stiffness to the blade, and with the lever cap pushing down, seats breaker & blade flat on the frog, creating more blade stiffness (cap iron). A very important, but lesser known, function of the chip breaker is to create a force down the wood fibers as the...
[Appears in its entirety here: Cambering a Scrub Plane Iron but what follows is the short version.] If you have a true scrub plane, like the Stanley 40, then you probably already have an iron with the right camber (curve) on the cutting edge. If you are in need of a scrub plane for flattening a twisted board there are a lot of good reasons to use an old wooden, transitional plane (the ones half wood with a metal carriage on top) or metal bench plane. Personally I like my Stanley #5 Jack...
I have been fortunate enough to assemble and use an array of handplanes – Stanley Bailey bench, block, and specific use planes, oriental woodies of various sizes, Lee Valley Veritas bevel up and scraper planes, and some other assorted types. It took a while, as in 4-5 years of using, fettling, trying various methods of things and different plane designs to form up some conclusions from my experiences. I thought I would pass along these experiences, primarily with the lesser experienced in min...
Now to finish it up. Here is an area that I screwed up on. When I opened up the throat I did both angles. I should have onlydone the side that the iron rests on. Doing the other side will make it wear out being so thin. I shouldhave cut that side straight down at 90 degrees. But I can easily fix that by adding an insert. Here I clamped the sides on the help guide the chisel. Laying the chisel flat againse the angled part madeit real easy to cut. ..I kept cutting the leading block sh...
- My Journey As A Creative Designer - Woodworking and Beyond - 1769 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 109 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 97 parts
- Toy costruction - 94 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- Life as an Amateur Woodworker - 80 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1794 entries
- dbhost - 430 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 397 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- mafe - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- shipwright - 254 entries
- Betsy - 228 entries
- robscastle - 226 entries
- stefang - 221 entries
- Dave Rutan - 219 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 207 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- A Slice of Wood Workshop - 199 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 195 entries