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Woodworking blog entries tagged with 'iron'

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Easily Flatten Your Sole

11-30-2014 10:15 PM by A Slice of Wood Workshop | 0 comments »

When dealing with handplanes there are two main things you have to have. The first is a really sharp iron. This helps make some great shavings and you can tell a difference between a dull iron and a sharp one. The second important thing to have with handplanes is a flat bottom. If the bottom isn’t flat you won’t end up with nice and flat lumber, or you will be fighting the pushing action while planing. In this video i show how easy it is to get a flat sole. The whole process takes...

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View A Slice of Wood Workshop's profile

Side Rabbet Plane Pt. 2- The Heart of the Plane

08-13-2014 02:05 PM by A Slice of Wood Workshop | 0 comments »

A hand plane can not be complete with out an iron. It is the heart of the plane and does the work. In this part I create by using a angle grinder, grinding wheel and file. This still needs to be tempered and get a final sharpening.

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View OSU55's profile

Handplane Performance Tuning #3: Chip Breakers & Cap Irons

01-21-2014 05:50 PM by OSU55 | 3 comments »

Cap iron or chip breaker, blade or iron – Some folks write treatises about which term is “correct”. I use the one that comes to mind, they mean the same thing. Chip Breaker Function The chip breaker adds mass to the blade and adds stiffness to the blade, and with the lever cap pushing down, seats breaker & blade flat on the frog, creating more blade stiffness (cap iron). A very important, but lesser known, function of the chip breaker is to create a force down the chip fibers as the...

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Handplane Performance Tuning #1: Sharpening Blades / Irons

01-13-2014 11:27 PM by OSU55 | 3 comments »

I have been fortunate enough to assemble and use an array of handplanes – Stanley Bailey bench, block, and specific use planes, oriental woodies of various sizes, Lee Valley Veritas bevel up and scraper planes, and some other assorted types. It took a while, as in 4-5 years of using, fettling, trying various methods of things and different plane designs to form up some conclusions from my experiences. I thought I would pass along these experiences, primarily with the lesser experienced in min...

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View Caleb James's profile

Free 18th Century Style 3/4" Wooden Rabbet Plane Plans

03-22-2013 11:37 PM by Caleb James | 7 comments »

So in the spirit of getting everyone in the shop and cutting up some wood I decided to post up a measured drawing of a 3/4” wooden rabbet plane in the 18th century style. It is all wood with the exception of the blade which is easily gotten from Lie-Nielsen here. It features a conical escapement and some simple embellishments that a hand plane, chisel, and #7 sweep gouge can handle. The plans are basic with a few things that can be easily changed if you like. Such as the bed angle...

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View A Slice of Wood Workshop's profile

Hand Planes #2: NY Tool Co iron clean-up

04-19-2012 01:23 PM by A Slice of Wood Workshop | 7 comments »

I got the iron cleaned up yesterday. Check out my website for more details. I was pretty impressed with the outcome. I gotta get it sharpened now and start cleaning the plane itself. I removed the handle the other day and cleaned out the mortise for a spot for the new handle. Have some left over mahogany, anyone think that will work? Which way is best for the grain to run, vertical or horizontal?

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View Chris Davis's profile

Way Back Wednesday #2: Spanish Rose

11-18-2010 03:42 PM by Chris Davis | 0 comments »

On Way Back Wednesday, I’m not going too far. In my span here it is. It is our Spanish Rose Four Poster. I built my first one about 10 years ago. At one time it was one of our biggest sellers. It was really our first production standard bed. Production as in I standardized the cut list and design to make it easier, quicker to build, and cheaper for the customer. It was a solid pine bed, built mostly form 2×10’s. The iron was a rose pattern made from cast iron. I really loved how I fin...

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View jeff_wenz's profile

"Fold up" ironing board (reverse engineering) #3: Parts list

09-05-2010 03:41 AM by jeff_wenz | 0 comments »

After building the mock up, here is the parts list: Case:(2) sides – ¾” maple/plywood combo (46 ½ x 7 ½”)(1) top – ¾” plywood (13×7 ½”)(1) bottom – ¾” plywood (13×7 ½”)(1) shelf – ¾ plywood (13×5 ¼”)(1) back – ¼” plywood (46 ½ x 14 ½”) Ironing Board:(1) ironing board – ¾” MDF (42 ¼ x 12”) the last 13” are tapered down to a 4 1/2” circle (see pic below with cottage cheese container)(1) board support – ¾” MDF (12×11 ½”) rounded – see pic below(1) slid...

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View jeff_wenz's profile

"Fold up" ironing board (reverse engineering) #1: measuring the model and planning any modifications

09-04-2010 06:52 PM by jeff_wenz | 2 comments »

So as part of a Murphy bed build, I wanted to incorporate a fold up (or hide away) ironing board. I have seen these at Lowes and Home Deport starting off about $168. They don’t look that hard to build and I sure think I could save some money AND incorporate some better materials. Step 1: Take my tape measure to Lowes and jot down some critical measurements. Ok, I forgot paper. Let’s see, what can I find in my glove box? Perfect, my State Farm insurance cards, I can use the ...

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View swirt's profile

Tool Mod #2: Cambering the Iron for a Scrub Plane

07-03-2010 04:59 AM by swirt | 5 comments »

[Appears in its entirety here: Cambering a Scrub Plane Iron but what follows is the short version.] If you have a true scrub plane, like the Stanley 40, then you probably already have an iron with the right camber (curve) on the cutting edge. If you are in need of a scrub plane for flattening a twisted board there are a lot of good reasons to use an old wooden, transitional plane (the ones half wood with a metal carriage on top) or metal bench plane. Personally I like my Stanley #5 Jack...

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