Bench stop!I have an “out door” work bench out by my garage. it stays covered with a tarp most of the time. I’ve been working against a wooden peg that frequently slips. So Yesterday I took an old RR spike I had lying around. It is almost the right shape to start with! made sure I knew where my helper was: lit a fire: and started banging on it! when I was happy with the shape of it, I put the fire out and let it cool. it neither needs or wa...
Ink Transfers- How I do it. So a number of folks have asked me about the method I use to put images and lettering on my projects. I thought I would use today’s blog as photo tutorial of sorts to answer this question. A few years back I ran across a Youtube video of a guy doing an ink transfer method using a laser printer and an iron, I have been working with this idea ever since. For this project I thought I would make a few bookmarks. First thing you will need to do is create ...
When dealing with handplanes there are two main things you have to have. The first is a really sharp iron. This helps make some great shavings and you can tell a difference between a dull iron and a sharp one. The second important thing to have with handplanes is a flat bottom. If the bottom isn’t flat you won’t end up with nice and flat lumber, or you will be fighting the pushing action while planing. In this video i show how easy it is to get a flat sole. The whole process takes...
A hand plane can not be complete with out an iron. It is the heart of the plane and does the work. In this part I create by using a angle grinder, grinding wheel and file. This still needs to be tempered and get a final sharpening.
Cap iron or chip breaker, blade or iron – Some folks write treatises about which term is “correct”. I use the one that comes to mind, they mean the same thing. Chip Breaker Function The chip breaker adds mass to the blade and adds stiffness to the blade, and with the lever cap pushing down, seats breaker & blade flat on the frog, creating more blade stiffness (cap iron). A very important, but lesser known, function of the chip breaker is to create a force down the chip fibers as the...
I have been fortunate enough to assemble and use an array of handplanes – Stanley Bailey bench, block, and specific use planes, oriental woodies of various sizes, Lee Valley Veritas bevel up and scraper planes, and some other assorted types. It took a while, as in 4-5 years of using, fettling, trying various methods of things and different plane designs to form up some conclusions from my experiences. I thought I would pass along these experiences, primarily with the lesser experienced in min...
So in the spirit of getting everyone in the shop and cutting up some wood I decided to post up a measured drawing of a 3/4” wooden rabbet plane in the 18th century style. It is all wood with the exception of the blade which is easily gotten from Lie-Nielsen here. It features a conical escapement and some simple embellishments that a hand plane, chisel, and #7 sweep gouge can handle. The plans are basic with a few things that can be easily changed if you like. Such as the bed angle...
I got the iron cleaned up yesterday. Check out my website for more details. I was pretty impressed with the outcome. I gotta get it sharpened now and start cleaning the plane itself. I removed the handle the other day and cleaned out the mortise for a spot for the new handle. Have some left over mahogany, anyone think that will work? Which way is best for the grain to run, vertical or horizontal?
On Way Back Wednesday, I’m not going too far. In my span here it is. It is our Spanish Rose Four Poster. I built my first one about 10 years ago. At one time it was one of our biggest sellers. It was really our first production standard bed. Production as in I standardized the cut list and design to make it easier, quicker to build, and cheaper for the customer. It was a solid pine bed, built mostly form 2×10’s. The iron was a rose pattern made from cast iron. I really loved how I fin...
After building the mock up, here is the parts list: Case:(2) sides – ¾” maple/plywood combo (46 ½ x 7 ½”)(1) top – ¾” plywood (13×7 ½”)(1) bottom – ¾” plywood (13×7 ½”)(1) shelf – ¾ plywood (13×5 ¼”)(1) back – ¼” plywood (46 ½ x 14 ½”) Ironing Board:(1) ironing board – ¾” MDF (42 ¼ x 12”) the last 13” are tapered down to a 4 1/2” circle (see pic below with cottage cheese container)(1) board support – ¾” MDF (12×11 ½”) rounded – see pic below(1) slid...
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