well I searched my garage for material appropriate to make handles/ends for my new steam bending strap. (re: Lee Valley)I was looking for a piece of 2×2 that was dark and possibly luan that I remember having. couldn’t find. then I looked through all of the stuff that I did have handy… beech, could be chair parts, osage, don’t want to waste it on something that’ll be left outside….spf .. to soft, oak (red or white) chair parts again. then I bumped into these....
I made this plane for the 2013 Plane Swap. It is also posted as a project, but I thought I’d give more details here. First, I draw up a plan. Fairly simple, but it helps me work out the shaping details and sort out any conflicts with the mouth opening. This plan shows a crosspin, but I changed my mind and went with the more traditional eared approach. It is still a laminated construction, with the ears being glued in after the fact. A bit of a challenge getting them ali...
I made this plane as a gift for a friend. He took a woodworking course to build a chair, and ran out of time. Hasn’t had any luck finding a shop to get some time in, so the pieces for the chair are sitting on a shelf in his apartment. I was hoping to inspire him to complete the project by giving him a tool he could use without needing a shop. We’ll see what happens. Jatoba body with beech stripe. Ipe sole. Tung oil and wax finish. 45 degree bed, Hock iron. I barely opened the mo...
Neither as long nor as wide as Derek Cohen's, but still pretty hefty: 24” long jointer, bedded at 45 degrees. The iron is a LV woodie, 2 3/8” wide. Beech body with ipe sole. The tote is cherry, knob is jatoba. Finish is tung oil. The knob is threaded in so I can remove it easily. Without the knob, I find it hard to get a good grip for planing or lifting it, so I just leave the knob on. I must admit that I’m not a hand plane purist. If I need to joint something in e...
This is another jatoba plane. Apart from sanding end grain, jatoba is a relatively easy wood to work with. Machines well, holds an edge and seems to be pretty stable. I’ve also not (yet) encountered any boards with reaction wood. Kind of smells like a wet dog when being cut. I like it for planes because it is dense – the added mass in a small plane really helps performance. No stripes this time, just jatoba and an ipe sole. The bed is a fairly steep 60 degrees, which releg...
Next up is a 50 degree block plane. The body is jatoba with an ipe sole. The stripe in the middle is ebony and beech. Iron is a Hock 1 1/2”. Finish is Waterlox and wax. Thanks to the jatoba and the Hock iron, this thing weighs more than some metal block planes. It fits very comfortably in the hand. Jatoba is extremely hard and dense. Sanding end grain is about the same as sanding hardened steel. That’s a bit of an exaggeration, but not by much. Forget about doin...
This one is a smoother with a 45 degree bed. About 10 1/2” long Curly maple, jatoba stripes and ipe sole. (I have half a plank of 1×4 ipe – what else am I going to use it for besides soles for planes?) And another cut-down LV wooden plane iron. Finish is tung oil and wax. The configuration of the stripes was inspired by a picture of a AC Cobra in racing trim. Not a typical stripe configuration for a Cobra, so it stuck out. This one loves making beautifully f...
I use this one as a smoother for some woods. It is short-ish for a smoother at 8 1/2”, but does its job quite well. Has a nice weight to it in use – not too light and not too heavy. Feels very solid. Made from wenge, with beech stripes and an ipe sole. Finish is tung oil and wax The bed is 50 degrees and the iron is another of the LV wooden plane irons. I cut it down with a Dremel and about 10 of those tiny cutting wheels. —Mark Kornell, Kornell ...
I always forget to take pictures so it goes from mounted on the lathe to nearly done. I knocked the corners off on the tablesaw. The bandsaw would have been my first choice but mine only has a carbon steel blade and ipe can damage carbon steel. I only have 2 types of turning tools, carbon steel (cs) and carbide (note to self: really need to get some HSS tools), so it was carbide on the head and c.s. on the maple. The ipe machined nicely but carbide tends to tear out more than steel so ...
The handle is 2 pieces of 4/4 maple about 2×12 inches. The head is 4 pieces of 4/4 reclaimed ipe about 2.5×7 inches. Getting the ipe flat without a jointer was trial and error. Hand planes dull after a few strokes and I didn’t want to risk my planer knives, so it was a matter of using the table saw and skimming a little at a time until the pieces were reasonably flat. “Reasonably” meant a little more clamping pressure than usual but at least with ipe you donR...
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