The handle.I did not like how the handle was looking, it appeared to lack any of the swirling grain that the top inset panel has. That happens sometimes after shaping, the good stuff ends up on the floor. Also… if you look close, you will notice in the picture below that I sanded too deep into the right corner of the handle and exposed the spline! Oops! So I made a new one from Black Palm Wood, a first time for me. The black color ties in with the Wenge corner splines, plus I love ...
Well that took a while to get back to but now some progress has been made. Initial round overs have been done with a 3/4” roundover and the glue-ups of the legs are done So now it’s on to the final shaping of the legs and to building the top, which is milled and ready to go Shaping will be largely done with my new Auriou rasp and Spokeshave that Santa delivered, gotta love that guy !! Plan to curve the end slightly, as per Marc’s design, but am going to add an i...
First I tape blocks in that I have sized for the position I want the lid to sit I then tape the lid in place. Next is to mark out and drill for the hinge pins I think the pictures show my process fairly well. If you have any questions or suggestions please leave them and hopefully we will all learn a little from each other. Next stop is get the lids opening correctly and then handles. Thanks for taking a look.
Here is a coffee cup my daughter picked out for me while at Discovery Cove, Orlando, FL. I thought you would like to see my inspiration for this part of the project. Above is the carving filled with epoxy and sanded. Now to clean out air bubble craters and epoxy again. I love this blue, it has a metallic flake in it that looks great. Until next time, Joey
I think the pictures tell all. I almost forgot to do this. This is the second layer of epoxy. I take extra care in filling the pockets left by air bubbles. I use a toothpick to push the epoxy into the craters. I have a spatula I made from a piece of pine that has a rounded edge. I can post a in anyone wants to see it. I use this as a squeegee to force the epoxy into the craters also. This can be tricky because if you wait to long it gets real stick and messes things up. ...
As I mentioned at the beginning of this, these two boxes will be for my wife and daughter. Today I was able to get back to working on them and did a little carving on the lids. If you would like to see more about how I do my epoxy inlays you can check it out at http://lumberjocks.com/JoeyG/blog/26663. I am not going into a lot of detail, since most of it is covered there. I just wanted to share the pictures of the progress and keep this as up to date as possible. You will notice that I...
I start with the lid already sized for the box. This one is purpleheart. I know, it’s almost impossible to carve, but it’s what the customer ordered. So I find a way. Next is to design your inlay After the drawing is done, I cover it with scotch tape or box tape Then comes the mirror and xacto knife After my stencil is made I transfer it to my lid blank With my trusty chip carving knife, I carve in my design. Since purpleheart is so hard I chose to o...
Design to Conception Are you interested in doing inlay, veneer, designing and building a project on your own? Here’s an example of a job I designed and built for a client last year. I already had a blog (perfect45degree.blogspot.com/) before discovering LJ. My guess is that most clients probably aren’t very interested in how I build other projects, only theirs. Given the community here, I thought I’d try writing about how I came to design and build the tünr (pronounced “tune-r”) dresser. ...
for more pics check out my blog here! My client, Jeffrey, and I imagined, designed and built the first point of purchase (pop) product display unit for tünr last summer. Tünr was the imagination of my brother Jeffrey coming to life as he dreamed, planned, proposed, organized and made crucial decisions. He had this idea; “Fine Tune Your Feet”. This is what he called tünr the sock and lace company that is now launched on the Internet and in street boutiques across the country. He approach...
Now I said in my previous blog, about the hinge on this box, that I probably wouldn’t make the hinge quite the same way again. But I was very happy with the way the inlay worked and that is worth repeating. So, this is how I did it. The first thing that I needed to do was pick the size of the forstner bit that I wanted to use. I chose 35 mm (about 1 3/8”) because it just felt right in proportion to the size of the top. Then I marked the centre of the top which is the centre...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1524 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 94 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- The Craftsman's Path - 67 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1549 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 394 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- William - 258 entries
- mafe - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- shipwright - 211 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 187 entries
- Rustic - 186 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 181 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 166 entries