The soundhole rosette is an aesthetic embellishment that provides an excellent opportunity for the luthier (or newbie like myself) to leave his distinctive impression on the finished instrument. Consequently I spent much time considering the design for the rosette on my first guitar build. Although I’ve significant experience inlaying wood, I’ve never worked with abalone or mother of pearl as is commonly used. In researching materials, I discovered just how pricey abalone and R...
Special thanks to the inspiration I found from lumberjock Scott Shangraws projects. (http://lumberjocks.com/shangrila) I started with a half round chunk of juniper fire wood. A few hours of carving with a chainsaw, then my angle grinder with a round chainsaw attachment, and finally a 40 grit flap wheel grinder and here is what I have. I used my dremel tool to route out any cracks, and added a few more lines as my mind saw fit to add some stone inlays for both something interesting t...
Moulding the stock Following up from the video film on the strength of these mitres. These are the steps I took to make this picture-frame moulded and inlaid stock and the frame itself. It’s dead straight forward using a pair of wooden T&G planes, a moulding plane, a tenon saw and a plane. You can make a simple shooting board with stop screwed to a board at 45-degrees or a proper one with removable stops. I took about 45 minutes to make it. Mould the stock with the moulding plane. I...
So I delivered the tabletops tonight to the coffee shop and helped my friend install them. It was very gratifying to see this big project come to a successful end. They seemed genuinely pleased with their purchase. Now I’m sharing with you, my lumberjock friends.
Some friends of mine run a local Coffee Roasting and Espresso Bar here in my area (Michigan), and they contacted me about building six new table tops for their coffee shop. For the design, we decided to inlay their company logo in each table. I’m using Maple, Walnut and Cherry. I decided to start with making the star. To save some work, I made just two variations, but made them thick enough so that after the glue up, I could slice them in to multiple st...
The handle.I did not like how the handle was looking, it appeared to lack any of the swirling grain that the top inset panel has. That happens sometimes after shaping, the good stuff ends up on the floor. Also… if you look close, you will notice in the picture below that I sanded too deep into the right corner of the handle and exposed the spline! Oops! So I made a new one from Black Palm Wood, a first time for me. The black color ties in with the Wenge corner splines, plus I love ...
Well that took a while to get back to but now some progress has been made. Initial round overs have been done with a 3/4” roundover and the glue-ups of the legs are done So now it’s on to the final shaping of the legs and to building the top, which is milled and ready to go Shaping will be largely done with my new Auriou rasp and Spokeshave that Santa delivered, gotta love that guy !! Plan to curve the end slightly, as per Marc’s design, but am going to add an i...
First I tape blocks in that I have sized for the position I want the lid to sit I then tape the lid in place. Next is to mark out and drill for the hinge pins I think the pictures show my process fairly well. If you have any questions or suggestions please leave them and hopefully we will all learn a little from each other. Next stop is get the lids opening correctly and then handles. Thanks for taking a look.
Here is a coffee cup my daughter picked out for me while at Discovery Cove, Orlando, FL. I thought you would like to see my inspiration for this part of the project. Above is the carving filled with epoxy and sanded. Now to clean out air bubble craters and epoxy again. I love this blue, it has a metallic flake in it that looks great. Until next time, Joey
I think the pictures tell all. I almost forgot to do this. This is the second layer of epoxy. I take extra care in filling the pockets left by air bubbles. I use a toothpick to push the epoxy into the craters. I have a spatula I made from a piece of pine that has a rounded edge. I can post a in anyone wants to see it. I use this as a squeegee to force the epoxy into the craters also. This can be tricky because if you wait to long it gets real stick and messes things up. ...
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