I completed the mechanism for the inside of the box lid and fit it to to canvasse boards that it will hold. I believe they are 12”X9? I built the cover for the top out of baltic birch ply and chamfered the edges to make it a bit more sleek. I put my artistic abilities to the test and printed off a quote from the English illustrator Arthur Rackham. I made sure the font was something attractive but would still be easy to burn. I printed the quote out and taped it to graphite transfer...
When I started woodworking I have three aims. achieve make beautiful boxes in wood and with mechanisms.This is because when I was a kid I loved them.My grandma had a box that my uncle made, and I never tired of playing with it. Now, my grandma and uncle had passed away, this box belongs to one of my cousins (I have 42) This is the box that started it all You can notice that this is a two parts box. The upper side has a mechanism to open the lid (that will be another entry of this blog),...
It has been a while since I shared the progress on our box. So here it is Previously on Box series #2 I have cut all my pieces for the 2 inside panel of the box And shaded them For todays episode, there is first the background cutting. It starts with glueing the design on the packs. The packs are a backer-board 3mm thick, grease paper, 4 layers of bloodwood sawn veneer, a front board and the design on top. The background is cut on the chevalet Like ...
It is time to do shading on those 2 first panels. The first thing I do is put the sand to heat. We have a cast iron pan on a 1500W hot plate containing about 2 inches of very fine sand. Second thing I do the shading map. When I do it home at night, while watching TV I do get a little more artistic like for the Treasure box series #1 Here I did it at work and was more practical The main action in shading is diping Depending on the species of the wood and t...
I am well into my project now, as you can see I have made the table top and had the legs professionally turned and now I am ready to construct the table and finish it. The lines of the soccer field were done by using a 10mm straight cut router bit and moving along a fence for a straight cut, 10mm deep. Then strips of jarrah were cut 10mm wide and 13mm thick to insert into the grooves. All worked out perfectly! Now I plan to make a wooden soccer ball (truncated icosahedron) to displ...
I’m not sure how this is going to work out online, here is the second Chevy in my plywood line up, in a much simpler layout, but just as reliable and very strong. Birch Plywood is an ideal medium to use for this kind of project due to its multi layered higher density form, but you could use good quality exterior ply which is slightly cheaper if the former is unavailable. First pictures straight out of CAD gives a view of the basic outline of what are basically a pair of si...
Well at long last I greet you all with the last blog on this Marquetry Wine Box Saga!! Keeping my 93 year old father company (these past two day) while he recovers from a nasty lung infection, has given me ample opportunity to catch up on computer stuff. And now I can devote a few relaxing hours to the composition of this final blog! Hummmmm … you’re right Mike ... Nouveau Gal does look a bit ‘sly’!! And yes … I promise to get some better pics of her ...
Gosh Darn Everyone … that was pretty mean of me to leave you all in suspense like that!! But pressing the main Art Nouveau design onto the front of the wine box turned out absolutely fine … and better yet … I found those missing photos relating to the other 3 panels!! BUT ... before I get farther into this blog I’m wondering if anyone out there has had a window jump up in front of them while on this particular site stating: ”Warning … Visiting this site...
I worked late enough last night I didn’t get to updating the blog until this morning. There were a couple pictures still on the camera for the prior day’s work. I got the template done and located it on the lid. After a few passes with the router, I had a recess. The lid is only 5/16 thick to start with and the recess is 3/16 deep. I trimmed the ironwood to size and rounded the corners. Then I applied glue and clamped them up for the night. The last thing I...
Started to build the RoseBud inlay that will go on the lid of the Bubinga and Purple Heart jewelry box. For this inlay I am using maple, yellow heart, rosewood, and kauri. Tomorrow I am going to do some sand shading to give the inlay a 3D effect. Should be pretty cool… P.S. The only down side to sand shading is the wood can sometimes stink and yellow heart is one of the worst!!! It is almost as bad as zebra wood… not quite but almost!!! Now that I’m finished with...
- My Journey As A Scroll Saw Pattern Designer - 1558 parts
- Extremely Average - 324 parts
- Workshop Development - 107 parts
- Just for Fun... - 96 parts
- A journey into the workshop. - 89 parts
- Daily Update - 87 parts
- "Hobbit Holes in MyWorld" --by RusticWoodArt - 77 parts
- As The Lathe Turns - 76 parts
- WoodWriting Haiku Thursday's --by RusticWoodArt - 74 parts
- ScrollSaw Information and Resources - 68 parts
- Sheila Landry (scrollgirl) - 1583 entries
- frank - 417 entries
- degoose - 395 entries
- dbhost - 390 entries
- Ecocandle - 325 entries
- MsDebbieP - 314 entries
- Karson - 305 entries
- Martin Sojka - 296 entries
- mafe - 275 entries
- William - 258 entries
- Betsy - 221 entries
- Stevinmarin - 212 entries
- shipwright - 212 entries
- Gary Fixler - 204 entries
- Todd A. Clippinger - 199 entries
- stefang - 188 entries
- Rustic - 188 entries
- Chris Davis - 183 entries
- BritBoxmaker - 181 entries
- Smitty_Cabinetshop - 175 entries